Rear crank oil seal- 300GE M103
Hello people...
Can anyone share their experience with the rear crankshaft oil seal (replacement). My engine has done 126k miles and with regular oil changes, but was in need of regular top-ups between intervals. The transmission specialist says the rear oil seal needs changing, has anyone else done this before, and is it easily done with the transmission out?
Also have you seen such a failure at this mileage.
Thanks!
Hi!
I've changed it on mine while the gearbox was removed for fly-wheel tooth-belt change. I changed it because had same oil level sypmtomps as you do plus some oil dripping from underneath the engine/gearbox.
Actually there was no need for this replacement (but good to use the opportunity). Oil was actually dripping from two oil line connections from the oil filter base housing. There is double-connection for oil cooler pipes with ring seal on each. Those two rubber rings were stiffed over the time and leaked. Leaked oil ended up in the lower point where gearbox is connected to the engine, giving me false opinion about the leak source.
selam brother !
ı have the same ıssue......136000 miles and depending on what sort of mileage i do regular top ups were needed :?
i was told that it could be the valve guide seals...
Hi firstly if you are losing oil from the engine in any volume there will be traces on the ground..if you have the "fording" bung fitted in the bellhousing take it out and oil may pour out confirming the failure of either the rear crankshaft seal or the front geabox seal. it will also foul the starter motor in time...if there are no external sources of a leak then the engine is consumng the oil (900/1000 miles to the "pint") is common on these higher mile engines.valve guide seals harden (sooner if you have ever had a "overheat" problem) and allow oil to be drawn in on the overun..Because the engine slopes to the rear.the back two cylinders can accumulate oil overnight to the extent that plugs may foul and morning/first starts may be on five or four cylinders. (plug electrodes will be a different colour and cokey) when exposed to oil....any semi/synthetic engine oil will magnify this problem. valve guide seals can be changed with the cylinder head insitu. crankshaft seals require the removal of the engine and parting from the gearbox then lower end disassembly of the engine....one hopes it is only valve guide seals from the fianancial aspect......
Hi firstly if you are losing oil from the engine in any volume there will be traces on the ground..if you have the "fording" bung fitted in the bellhousing take it out and oil may pour out confirming the failure of either the rear crankshaft seal or the front geabox seal. it will also foul the starter motor in time...if there are no external sources of a leak then the engine is consumng the oil (900/1000 miles to the "pint") is common on these higher mile engines.valve guide seals harden (sooner if you have ever had a "overheat" problem) and allow oil to be drawn in on the overun..Because the engine slopes to the rear.the back two cylinders can accumulate oil overnight to the extent that plugs may foul and morning/first starts may be on five or four cylinders. (plug electrodes will be a different colour and cokey) when exposed to oil....any semi/synthetic engine oil will magnify this problem. valve guide seals can be changed with the cylinder head insitu. crankshaft seals require the removal of the engine and parting from the gearbox then lower end disassembly of the engine....one hopes it is only valve guide seals from the fianancial aspect......
Dear Pete, what you're saying sounds eerily close to what the problem might be, now that you mention the fouling.....I need to get back to you on that! I thought the rear seal could be changed in-situ, the EPC is not very clear on that, but if it means engine out then...might as well take it to Bills or Ireland!?
.... crankshaft seals require the removal of the engine ......
Actually this is not true. I can say from experience that you "only" need to unbolt the gearbox from the truck and the crankshaft back end seal is yours.
As you can imagine, gearbox is heavy, especially automatic as mine.
Tranny guy says they can do it from the back, he also fixed the transfer case speedo drive leak (leaves annoying spots on driveway and needs regular top up), now he's gone and ordered a new rotor and distributor, but I asked him not to fit them as I think the problem of fouling the distributor is based somewhere behind it (camshaft?), it can't be that the car needs a new distributor every year!
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I've changed it on mine while the gearbox was removed for fly-wheel tooth-belt change. I changed it because had same oil level sypmtomps as you do plus some oil dripping from underneath the engine/gearbox.
Actually there was no need for this replacement (but good to use the opportunity). Oil was actually dripping from two oil line connections from the oil filter base housing. There is double-connection for oil cooler pipes with ring seal on each. Those two rubber rings were stiffed over the time and leaked. Leaked oil ended up in the lower point where gearbox is connected to the engine, giving me false opinion about the leak source.
Ah I see, thanks for that input, the area below the oil filter appears dry, oil seems to be on the other side of the engine...I had a good look there when I removed the starter. The transmission is out to change the starter flywheel/ring tooth thing too :wink:
ı have the same ıssue......136000 miles and depending on what sort of mileage i do regular top ups were needed Confused
i was told that it could be the valve guide seals...
wa alaykom asalaam bro, seems all 300GEs develop the same sypmtoms sooner or later in life! i'm hoping it's not the valve seals..the head is sat snugly with the new bolts and gasket we put in 3 years ago!