So, is Soya oil good for running der "G" on?
Cos i can get it for 26.5ppl
Beef dripping makes the best chips!
I would of thoght it all cames down to the viscosity and the outside temperture this time of year my 617A runs on 100% rape oil but when the cold comes I thin it with dino deisel. sofar so good four years at 25000 miles a year the only problem I find is a iregular tickover when cold but when she is warm its smother and more tourquey to make it start easier on a cold morning remove 1.5 mm from the glow plug face this puts it mearer the injection nozzle as oil has a narrower jet pattern. good luck
No problem there, but you will have to warm or dilute in the winter. Normal diesel will work, but kerosene is the best for diluting. I would also fit a simple heat exchanger, PM me your email address and I will send you a drawing of how you can make one, or have a plumber make it for you. If you want, I can have one made for you for about £25.
So what's the verdict on the soy oil? I can get it cheap too so would be interested if it works. Have been using rapeseed with no problems.
Leeu - please explain? does this heat the oil to allow you to run 100% in winter?
I have not yet put the old girl back on the road
Neither of them are driving yet :roll:
2nd birthday not until Feb mind
Yes I had spotted the comments about Kero elsewhere
But its ILLEGAL
So I could cut with petrol :lol:
DON'T use petrol!!!
The mix with petrol is to critical, it can be fine if the mix is right, but petrol burns a lot hotter than diesel, but doesn't give you that much extra, except for thinning the oil. You can blow your engine with petrol, and for some reason a few 350td's have gone that way.
I did quite a study of this before I started running my cars on bio.
A very good alternative is still to mix it with normal diesel, with soy, 20% diesel should do it with soy.
The heat exchanger is very simple. You use the heat from the engine to warm the oil, thus making it thin enough to flow. You need to decide how far you want to take it; have two tanks, start the car on diesel and switch to bio once the engine is hot....
For me, I like to run my car like normal, install a simple heat exchanger and in summer I run the car on 100% reclaimed oil and in winter I add 10% diesel. Even if I had to add 20% diesel, it would still be a great saving both to my pocket and to the environment.
The heat exchanger is simply 6mm copper pipe rolled into a coil and then inserted into a 6" section of 2" copper pipe with a small hole drilled through the 2" pipe 1" from each end for the 6mm pipe coil to enter and exit. These holes are the silver soldered. The 2" pipe goes on you radiator hose, so the heated water flows through the 2" pipe with the coil inside. You connect your fuel line to the 6mm pipe, and there you go.
It is a lot simpler if you see it than me trying to describe it in words, but it works for me and a few of my friends.
Leeu - are you going to AGM? would love to take a look at it. i have just been running it at 40-50% diesel in winter with no mods. 20% in summer but if I can increase percentage.....
that is great that soy oil works...
I doubt it Max. My wife isn't really into cars, as long as she can drive a G.
Plus I am so scint after moving back from SA that I haven't even paid my membership yet...
I first need to fit a set of new tyres, might buy the guy in Dorset's late dad's 463, need another rifle, and go on a 4 week safari in Southern Africa....
I don't even know when or where, remember I have been away for over two years.
Too skint to pay membership but buying another G hey....hmmmm :oops: :wink:
I had figgured sommat similar
but being a prefectionist ( yes really Ian , i am, :oops: not neccessarily a good thing though)
So pre or post fuel filter?
pre I presume to prevent clogging
Plus how then do you heat the oil before the engine reaches normal operating temperature
I did see reference to some old PSA water heated fuel filter btw,
If one needs electric heating to cover the time lag until the engine warms up
what is the most practical installation
cheers
m
gee i think i'll just stick with re-routing my webasto to drink from a small dino-diesel tank rather than the main tank.
Of course waiting half an hour before you can go anywhere is a bit of a pain....
Could one rig up the sort of trace heating that gets used on water pipes to prevent legionella build up and wire it to the battery?
I "tink" i have seen reference to using a glow plug
I imagine immersed in the water jacket rather than in the oil
I'll just stick to my system of pre-pump and add some diesel in winter. It is hassle free and cheap.
Pre-pump?
Ps :wink:
I wasn't the one who mentioned fuel heating :lol:
cheers
M
Wor daughter is still NOt impressed with driving the old 1989 girl
She would rather I bought another Galaxy type veh
but
I am currently swithering between a Skoda Octavia diesel DSG
And a 2010 model Kia Ceed 1.6 die auto SW
It were easier to buy a wee farm o land than a bloody car :roll:
I think Marcus doesn't want to add diesel to to his soya to maintain his vegetarian purity and would even go cold pressed organic if he could. Ha ha!
Max pm me your email address so that I can send you the design for the heat exchanger as I don't know how to put it on the forum. The design belongs to Mr John Nicholson and he is looking for a manufacturer, so maybe someone on here can help.
LEEu
No need, I tink I have a clear picture of the fabrication necc
Plus I got the pipe
Why silver solder?
I would have thought soft/lead solder would be Ok
I think it is more for handling purposes, taking filters off, etc
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Thanks Dr Unimog
I had been in the intention of running on rapeseed oil, as I can source locally,
BUT
Soya oil is significently cheaper
I had intended to thin with Dino regardless
I will now research the viscosity :roll: