Spraying advice

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Gibson
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Hi,

I'm having ago at my car ive stripped most of it down and fixed rust etc and now looking at spraying it... Its matt blue at the moment but I want to do Gloss black.

I've never sprayed a car before I've done my 40ft american motorhome but thats a different type of texture (bumpy)! Ive done one thin layer of primer so far and got no runs etc but now i need to know how many layers of primer and grade of sand paper between each coat?

Once thats done how do you prevent orange peel effect on gloss black? I know im gonner probally get advice on not to do it myself like previous post but i want to..I have the compressor/guns etc etc and want to learn so if i scratch it I can fix it myself! Also bare in mind this is my first car (im 21) and been a long project lol

Many thanks
Joe

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peter perfect
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Re: Spraying advice

Nice long smooth flow, left to right, the art is to not put too much paint on at once. Better four coats of thin than two coats of thick, after second coat rub down with fine paper and two more coats ( top finish that's is)

mgrays
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Re: Spraying advice

What type of paint first.. 2 pack is not nice.

Use primer/filler to get a nice easy self smoothing undercoat (MB did.. well they used more like spray putty ... the primer is that thick!). I would recommend getting a little 5" orbital sander from Machine mart .. great for a G as there are so many flat panels and get the fine and super fine discs. I killed mine so I have a more expensive Bosch but they just take a lot of the pain out of the prep work.

Wet and dry layers; always use a rubbing block (a wee 6x2" foam block is good for corners). Straight lines are good. What out for rubbing through on edges and corners so only prep them with the higher grit stuff.
180 is rust
320 is pretty rough
600 is still pretty hard but starting to get there for general prep
800 is a where I would start for the all over prep
1000 is near finish
2000 is what I use for the final cut prior to painting
.. then panel wipe on clean cotton
.. then tag rag for the dust

Black and Silver are about the worst colours to paint in... but if it is solid black not metallic it will be easier as you can rub down the runs and bits using 1000&2000 wet n dry followed by rubbing compound which is what you should do anyway to get rid of orange peel..

So basically you want a solid layer of primer .. which when you rub down the first time you will find faults... so it may take 2-3 goes to get a solid layer. That is then misted with top coat and then you spray.. mixing sideways with up/down to stop you getting a strip too much .. as said ..little often, with heat so it flashes/dries quickly. Metallic requires the lacquer coat after that... I would steer clear for your first time as it makes fixing faults harder and you already have mountain to climb.

Got my paint mix messed up on Saturday so I'm waiting for it to dry.. but thankfull not the G .. spent enough time painting that!

Gibson
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Joined: 18.10.2007
Location: UK
Re: Spraying advice

Hi,

Sorry for the late reply ive had no internet for a few weeks!!

Well im patient so I will do it till it get it right! Im goign to try coach paint first on the bonnet to see how that works as ive used it before (on the motorhome) and it was easy and had very good results!!!!

Please can you tell me the thinning ratio for primer and also coach paint?

Many thanks
Joe

mgrays
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Re: Spraying advice

2 pack paint suppliers if your are doing commercial vehicle or motorbike :wink: .. note comment about 2 pack please..
http://www.auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/

But maybe this lot?
http://www.carpaint.co.uk/automotive_paint.htm
"single pack air-drying paint that is fast drying, easy to use and produces excellent finishes"

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?p=2773989
Good painting guide for whole car painting

Good DIY painting guide
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

The ratios depend on the paint used.. for my 2 pack stuff.. primer was 4:1:1 but the primer filler is 5:1:1. Solid colour paint is 2:1:1 .. forgot my metallic ratios but basically talk to the person supplying the paint as it varies from type and make. The ratios are paint:hardener:thinners.

mortinson
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Location: Old beehive, Madrid, Spain
Re: Spraying advice

Ahhh! Them good ol days!

This is circa 1987, my (then) brother-in-law and myself painting my ex-granddad SEAT 850 Especial at my dad's place... and having a laugh at our to-the-armpit shorts! :lol:

Sorry, can't give advice on painting: he was the expert, not me!

mgrays
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Re: Spraying advice

No shorts.. but a G aerofix kit? :)

..had to build a spray booth after this attempt.. :cry:

Gibson
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Joined: 18.10.2007
Location: UK
Re: Spraying advice

Hi,

I have started spraying my first full coat but the paint is strange!

It seems to be drying (its not takie) but when you run your fingers lightly over it it leaves finger marks as youd expect on gloss black but if you try to clean them of the paint becomes dull and doesnt appear to be drying right?!?!?!

Im doing it in a very warm place and its not running etc so not sure what the problem is?!?!?!?

Hope you can help
many thanks
Joe

mgrays
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Re: Spraying advice

Guess would be gun set up. Need right pressure .. 60-70 psi for old type guns and 40 psi for new HVLP guns (high volume low pressure) which are far better as you waste less paint in the air.

So is it dry like sandpaper ...
Is it "wetting out" .. where it produces a gloss finish or is it staying on top as a matt/textured/dry finish? e.g. dry sandpaper

Spitting is thick paint, blocked gun, too low pressure
Dry sandpaper can be many things but too low pressure, too little air
Micro blisters with bubbles is water or paint reaction (my last fault)
Fish eyes is reaction to silicon/oil etc where the paint pulls back and does not skin over the blister
Paint ratios right?

I set the gun up on a blank wall.. play with every setting and then when it is wetting out.. then experiment with the fan shape, hand speed/movement etc. I would start with water to start with to get it right.. then flush with thinners and restart on the paint. Paint volume is set by needle stroke at the top opposite end to the spray outlet .. air volume if present is at the bottom by air inlet .. sometimes they have spray pattern choice on the side which goes from fan to spot (usually fancy guns). If you do not have enough flow it is the same as low pressure.. I use a dedicated 2hp compressor for paint and a dedicated 2.5hp compressor for air mask. I never got my large 1.2mm spray gun to work well so ended up doing it all with my little 0.8mm gun.. harder to stop the tiger stripes (merging silver paint) but at least it is consistently decent.

So not sure if that is any use to you..