G300 Dying
The car ran out of electrical power, preceded by abs light coming on then just died, no radio wipers etc alarm went off wouldnt start. Jumped it drove to garage suspecting battery, died on way when used indicators same symptoms. Changed battery and was ok untill got home had been using lights as was dark and it died again? any sugesstions
Hi an alternator output check would be a good place to start.... there should be a dash warning light lit or slightly glowing to indicate partial or total failure.....your electrical supply from the battery without alternator input is of very short duration......
oddly enough I experienced precisely the same symptoms on Saturday occurring in the same order, abs warning light, radio failing and a progressive loss of power, diagnosis is a failed battery warning bulb in the dashboard which when blown breaks the charging circuit, need to dismantle the dash to replace this. Still being repaired will update you as it progresses
very interesting ! I better find more about this you never know when it will hit you. please update us on the results and is there any way of preventing or realising this earlier?
I doubt there is a way to prevent it and like tarrick I had no battery warning light to give the game away.
sounds like the alternator to me.
no electric current to drive the fuel pumps caused the vehicle to die
wish it was the alternator, refurbing that although expensive will be cheaper and quicker than stripping the dashboard
Hi find a local aternator overhaul shop in Yellow pages some do "over the counter exchange" around GBP 200 for an exchange unit.....remove the regulator pack from the rear of the alternator and get it checked.... this component fails more often than the alternator.......
Priced a recon one at my local factors, haven’t a clue what make I was only after one as a spare to take to Tunisia.
Around £85. Wasn’t an exchange (not much use a spare otherwise :roll:
i tend to agree on this one, for the money, i'd rather get a refurb than a new one from MB
abs warning light, radio failing and a progressive loss of power, diagnosis is a failed battery warning bulb in the dashboard which when blown breaks the charging circuit
Interesting diagnosis - will look there as removing the dash is a simple job with the right tools :wink:
My symptoms aren't quite as dramatic, radio died then ABS light came on, then lights were noticeably dimmer, but engine power was fine for the 30seconds it took me to get home (maybe it was going to die anyway?). I wasn't hanging around to find out. Need to invest in a multimeter!
Hi inspecting a 463 recently I found that the alternator warning lamp had been relocated in the abs warning lamp location to fool an MOT inspection (successfully I might add)...your symptoms would point to alternator failure possibly one phase.of the three phase output.the abs circuit will respond to low voltage by lighting the warning light before all power fails.the fact that the lights dimmed would indicate that you were drawing power from the battery only in last moments before the battery output dropped to 11.5 volts. I would focus on the alternator unless of course the drive belt failed for some reason......
Hands up time, fault was the alternator, had it rewired with new windings and the bulb in the dash replaced.
Thank you gentlemen - experienced input always appreciated!
It started fine today but died not long into the drive. The regulator on the alternator was the culprit - with the help of the local auto electrics shop.
Managed to take it off and fit another one and test it with the alternator in place, fortunately there is enough space around, above and below it.
New one on order (not Bosch as I'm not sure this will cure it - there might be other underlying issues) as the charge to the battery is only 13.3/4 volts, so there is a loss somewhere, tomorrow hopefully when new part arrives it will go in and testing resumes.
The bulb in the dash was intact, but never came on before. Teaches me to pay attention to dash bulbs when ignition is turned on!
One last thing - I suspect the fried regulator was due to water ingress from the alternator snorkel - never splash water in the engine compartment, or jetwash it for that matter.
Hi indicated output is not bad 14v is the nominal voltage.... looks like you have the problem solved ......
Hi fixwin..you'd be surprised! Today with the new regulator (and cleaning the terminals) the reading was ~14.2v (as opposed to 13.3-13.4 yesterday).
Thanks to everyones input of course.
Now to tackle the starter :D
Peak performance then! what's wrong with the starter?....
Peak performance then! what's wrong with the starter?....
Ah long story, found difficulty explaining it to the electrics team until it happened in front of them. Screeches/grinds/doesn't engage sometimes.
Suspect:
a. Starter gear (little one)
b. " Solenoid
c. " Clutch
d. Starter ring gear (big one)
I saw a thread from a few years back with a member who had starting problems and replaced the ring more than once..
http://gwoa.co.uk/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1116
until he found out he had the wrong starter fitted to begin with. Hence my worry, and it tends not to do it when I rev the engine slightly before shutting off...which makes me suspect a worn gear-tooth somewhere...will update once solved I hope.
Hi Symptoms would point to damaged teeth on the flywheel ring gear.the fact that when you rev the engine before shutting down solves the problem is because the ring stops in a different postion when the revs are increased .taking the engine out is only way to access the starter ring which on an automatic is welded to the driven plate.
Hi Symptoms would point to damaged teeth on the flywheel ring gear.the fact that when you rev the engine before shutting down solves the problem is because the ring stops in a different postion when the revs are increased .taking the engine out is only way to access the starter ring which on an automatic is welded to the driven plate.
Hello again.
Uh oh. Hope for the best - prepare for the worst :)
I guess you're talking about part number 50 in the photo:
A1030300512.
An ebay search reveals an image (copyright german-spob.de), I'm guessing this is what the ring gear is shrunk/welded on to. I wasn't planning to invest in a winch/crane yet...we'll see what the prognosis is.
Hi Item 44 is what is shrunk onto the flywheel for a manual transmission.Item 50 is the plate assembly c/w starter ring that the torque converter bolts onto for the automatic transmission..I believe that plate in sold as single piece c/w with the ring..it is bolted to the rear end of the crankshaft.....
I see - thanks for the input (no pun intended).
I sometimes think taking the G to Ireland might be a solution to my problems, what fixwin doesn't have, buckalec does :lol:
A slightly unrelated question: what would you use as a seal between the transmission/engine, or in fact is a seal/gasket needed?
Hi the gearbox / engine interface flange does not require a gasket. the torque converter sits in a dry cavity and any oil leaking from the protection bung in the bottom of the bell housing should not be there.it will be coming from either the rear beariing crankshaft seal or the gearbox spigot shaft seal.the sole purpose of the bung is to stop water / mud entering that area when fording/mudplugging offroad... if there is a leak and the bung is in place eventually the oil will contaminate the starter motor!!??
Hello again!
There is some oil seeping around the bung at the bottom of the bell housing, but doesn't look serious, and after finally getting the starter out, it looks dry in there, so I don't think the crank bearing seal is gone.
The starter gear does look worn tho and will be replaced, next step is to investigate the big starter ring gear, and hope for the best.
For readers wanting to remove the starter off their 300GE in future, 2 key things:
1. Remove intake manifold support bracket (remove 1 end, loosen the other) to give you more space to move around - this bracket is hidden away but can be felt by hand.
2. Remove oil pressure sensor (I'm assuming that's what it is) at the bottom of the oil filter housing.
In addition to loosening/undoing many cables/connections in the area, the starter should come out in one piece from above.
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It would appear that it is the alternator.... going to fit a pat one as the MB job is £500 + will let you know how it goes and thanks for all the help :D