Hard Wiring 12v plugs
Is it possible to hard wire a 12v plug into the G? Can the cigarette part just be cut off and the wires spliced in?
This is rather than having to constantly plug something into the lighter socket.
Max,
If you are hard wiring?
Why do you still need the plug :lol:
Jat
I would imagine it would make sense to simply clip ( with those one time blue plastic purpose designed for the job thinggies) your appliance wires direct to the supply wires feeding the cigg socket. and retain the socket
Or can one not get a better quality socket to replace the cigg lighter socket with, and fit corrosponding plugs to any or all appliences.
with a ciggy socket / new plug adaptor kept in the glove box just in case :roll:
Hard wire an inverter in while you are at it
Maybe you got one already
Ideally you should pick up your power from the fuse cluster....any add-on 12v sockets should be individually fused..just in case somebody plugs in the cool box/freezer chest or some other "high amp draw" technology.. use Brown for the earth and a non standard colour for the live and add them to the wiring diagram in the handbook.pick up your power feed from one of the spare fuse holders in the fuse cluster and mark them "12v socket" with tippex.. it will help you remember what you did two years down the line and guide the new owner if you sell it...and you won't have bastardised an original fitment......locating the sockets in unobtrusive places can be easily achieved with a little prying and deft fingers....
Better to hard wire from the battery with appropriately proportioned fuses and wires for the corresponding demand. Leave the fuse box alone !
On my 280 I have a separate fuse box hard wired from the battery for all the auxuilary equipment and more.G300 will follow soon.
Maxwell haven't we talked about this before?
We talked about adding a second socket for a fridge. But I want to wire in a permanent charger for my mobile/gps rather than having to plug it in to the lighter all the time.
very easy, same logic. just take out the socket out or eguation and fix "whatever" permanently. I would advise you to solder your connections rather than crimping, fail proof.
not very professional adding wires to battery terminals/posts and probably not very convenient if your battery is not in the engine bay....... I suppose "inline fuses" will do in a dry place. there is a large earth terminal behind the glovebox (LHD).... power cable runs should be taken from the ignition key switch so that any supply is isolated when the key is in your pocket. hot wired to the battery posts in my opinion is NOT the way to go....
my battery is in the rear - so a bit of a pain except for when adding a fridge...
if it is just a mobile and gps - can I not just solder it to the lighter socket terminals?
thanks for feedback,
add an inline fuse for extra safety. that should be ok as long as you do it nice and carefull.
Solder verus Crimp... solder tends to fail first (tends to wick up the wire and harden insulation) .. but it costs to buy a proper crimping tool.. but that is what airplanes use.. where soldering is banned. Your choice.
Paid 25 quid for my crimper and not happy with it. How much does a good one cost? :?:
Good crimpers tend to be compound action i.e. not just one pivot like a pliers but a couple of pivots to create a lot more crimp from you hand power. I paid all of £12 in Dubai in the electrical shop area.. but in the UK you could easily spend £40 for the same thing.
http://www.thecrimpcompany.com/scpro/crimp/products/productsmoredetails....
..opps £60 for CK ones
So don't use these £16 single action type;
http://www.thecrimpcompany.com/scpro/crimp/products/productsmoredetails....
They cannot apply so much force so have a smaller area to crimp to keep the force down... as a rule they cut and do not crimp!
I actually don't like the preinsulated terminals and use the U shaped folding type when I can .. these can be folded with care using the cheap crimps.. and you need the insulating sleeves to go with them.. these are the Auto/Aero quality items..
http://www.thecrimpcompany.com/scpro/crimp/products/allproductssub.asp?p...
Sound expensive but when you are paying £1-2 for 10 of the insulated crimps that fall off the first time you tug them.. then the £5/100 sound cheap.
Never used "the crimp company" .. just the first decent Google hit.
So have now bought everything but the inline fuse to do this job. What sort of amps is recommended? 5? Does it matter if I get a glass or blade fuse?
So have now bought everything but the inline fuse to do this job. What sort of amps is recommended? 5? Does it matter if I get a glass or blade fuse?
It will depend on your appliance and the wire gauge to fuse/protect the circuit correctly.
My Engel fridge is mounted to my sleeping platform towards the right side in the rear and I just provided a second power socket next to the back door. This new outlet got energized from the factory one on the other side of the door - no extra fuses. The fridge only draws like 2.7A.
My removable 12V to 120V inverter is being plugged into a power cable pigtail which is energized directly from the battery (behind the center console) using #12 AWG wiring (both for +12V & -12V) and protected by a 20A fuse. #12 AWG wire will handle 20A per our US code.
What type fuse - I do like the blade type fuses, there are some really nice fuse holders on the market, boat stores have great electrical stuff compared to the poor selections at the average AutoZone place. It's good practice maybe to use the same fuses as been found in your vehicle - unless they are real aweful.
Karl
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Yes that is what I was wondering can one just cut off the plug and splice in the two wires or does it need to have some sort of inverter/fuse/whatever put between them?
I am finding the integration of mobile/mp3 player into a G with d2b while keeping the steering controls very frustrating.
Am also wondering about getting a hard wired FM modulator since there is no audio in on my head unit...