Knocking from nearside wheel
hi just when I thought we had our G230ge sorted out it has developed a knocking from the nearside wheel this only happens in reverse and on one lock, (steering fully to the right) put it in forwards on the same lock and all is well. We have just fitted koni heavy raid shocks and BFG t/a ko 235 85 r16 tyres all round on the factory rims two days ago and the knocking has just started ? any ideas anyone ....also as an aside we have just had the timing and rocker gaps done and seem to have lost 20mph off our top end (used to be about 90mph now lucky to hit 70mph I know the tyre diameter change will affect speedo display but only by 2-3 mph! any help would be apriciated as we are about to leave on a 10 week tour of Africa in the G (Twickenham to Timbuktu) and need to get this sorted.
Thanks in advance
look at "phil g" on this forum he has just experienced the same problem.... with pics. the noise is probably a collapsed bearing in the CV joint..involve a total strip down of the hub. also "tyreman" this forum has some threads and pics. if you tuned the engine did you change the fuel filter located in front of the fuel tank and the inline filter in the engine bay...
Hello jaipaul,
This is my third attempt to post you a reply to your thread, for some reason when posting the completed message on, the browser shows up a fault and looses all I type in!
The c.v. joint on full locks makes noise. Consider renewing the full hub,king-pin bearings, seals'and core plugs' for both sides. As to renewing the second c.v. joint, this is a matter for you to decide, but I suppose you could get away with a strip down, clean up and inspection, if signs are favourable, re-pack with fresh c.v. joint grease.
I guess you have an early 230GE, the models I have worked on had hydraulic tappets to them; having said that 230GE's were generally rare any way. So assuming the valve clearences and ignition timing are properly adjusted, you should not notice engine performance for the worse than before adjustment, the engine should idle relatively smoothly at a constant idle speed, it should start almost instantly, should switch off instantly and coolant temperature to read a constant, normal, just above 80 degrees centigrade. The accleration should be with power and without hesistation. If these traits are differnt after adjustment, then the work has not been correctly executed.
Has the Co emissions been re-adjusted as well? It ought to have done. So, assuming all above checks out, infact, before you even begin to re-check for that,I suggest to run your car along side a second; driving at three different but constant speed driving. Conduct this test at three seperate speeds, at 30, 40 and 50 M.p.h. Keep along side matching the speed and compare speedo readings at all those seperate speed markers, this will give you an instant result as to your different tyre are or could be to blame.
Good Luck and Regards from,
1)
www.gwoa.co.uk/index.p...pic&t=4624
2)
http://g-manufaktur.de/shop/index.php?cat=c68_2-11-1-Vorderachse-Antrieb...
154135e41dc8
3)
http://www.gwoa.co.uk/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6624&highli... (view the fourth thread down on this page from mortisson).
4)
Cardigan Workspace, Lennox Road, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS4 2BQ
Tel: 0113 289 0819
sales@cvjoints.co.uk
The above threads should help you with fittings and sourcing c.v. joints. The bearings are better got from the dealers, take your data card with you or at least the chasssis no. together with the front axle number if you can.
Any good tyre fitting place can sell you these.
Thanks for the info we will get that side stripped down and have a look. Does anyone have a parts explosion of the wheel/hub they can send me
Thanks again