mercedes special tools
I was a bit annoyed(polite description) to find you can no longer purchase Mercedes Special Tools unless you are proffesional i.e Vat registered, I know I can probably get some garage to order it on my behalf but it means they have to register etc. Who makes the majority of special tools for Merc?
The tool I want is to remove the fuel filter/gauze/strainer in the Tank, 4prongs about 75mm apart.
Try Hazet Tools, address can be got from website but they do not allow you access to the specialists dealer catalouges. They manufacturer all splealists tools for the German dealerships', but they are not cheap.
Get in touch from the telephone number on website and request the M/benz tools catalougue.
Regards,
If you have the MB tool number (can normally be found from the www.service-and-parts.net site) then I may be able to order it from my local friendly dealer, who is always willing to help me part with money...
The following are good resources for service tools.
http://aftersales.specialtoolbase.mercedes-benz.com/
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm
Once you have a number you can check the price (rough figure) at:
http://mbspares.chance.ru
If you mean you want to remove the bit at the top of the tank (accessed from the small hatch inside the "boot") then you can improvise with a pair of locking pliers and a straight piece of metal (I used an old door hinge), you shouldn't need that much force to twist it off, as the rubber seal is what keeps it tight. Alternatively try shifting it with a big flat screwdriver and hammer at an angle, a few taps should twist it free.
In photos...
I know what part you mean now, I once tried removing it but it wouldn't budge (got an adjustable pin plier with big jaws) and I was afraid of ruining the composite tank (which is very dear to replace, with the mounting kit) so I left well enough alone.
Let me guess, you can only ever fill the tank with 70L or so of fuel, and can't make use of the last 20L or so?
If I pass by the parts people tomorrow I'll try to see if they can get it...no promises.
Yes, welcome to the club!
I consulted a German G-expert on the subject as it looked like he'd taken the tanks apart before, and he said it was a small hose (if I remember right) on the collector in the tank, that comes off, and is near impossible to put back with that collector in the tank, so most people change the tank to rectify the problem, or just live with it.
Here's a photo of the apparent culprit:
http://hehlhans.de/bilder/autos/g240/tankgeber/ktank13in.jpg
and the piece you want to remove:
http://hehlhans.de/bilder/autos/g240/tankgeber/tank463g.jpg
and more detaill (in Deutsch, google translation):
http://66.102.9.104/translate_c?hl=en&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://hehlhans.de/t...
Let us know how you get along...
ps. ordered the tool today, nearest stock in germany, will take 5 working days, ~£15 total. If you don't need it i'll add it to the collection.
.....Wasn't aware of Petrols being affected like this, though as I understand its just a hose thats come adrift? Diesels I think suffer from some sort of Algae growth. I hope this sorts it out. The Petrol looks a lot more complicated in relation to the Diesel.
Had a '91 300GE with that problem. Tried many things, but never figured out what was the cause. I also know someone who had the problem with a 2002, G400.
Now I know!
The tool has arrived, £14.68 total, didn't know it existed before you brought it to attention! If you have any luck removing that collector at the bottom of the tank and replacing it let me know...
I couldn't really see that it could be removed without removing the cover. The protection plate isn't that hard to get off, 6 bolts that go into welded nuts on the fuel tank straps, just give it plenty of penetrant spray, and be sure to use the right size socket so as not to wear the heads, which often get eaten away by rust.
Removing it gives you much better access, also you might want to remove the hose that goes to the fuel pump to be able to turn it freely.
Just tried it against a 1/2 inch drive and it won't fit, so I guess it must be 3/8, but I don't have any to hand at the moment to test it.
I think the advice I was given (no guarantees) was to twist it about 20 degrees then pull it out. I hope you have a spare tank just in case!
Never did it myself...
Has anyone since managed to do this - to remove the tank strainer inside the fuel tank, at the bottom ?
I have a starvation problem on my G400 below 1/4 tank. The problem manifested itself over-night and its's either this small pipe that's come off on the inside or 'Diesel fungus' . In any-case I think this needs to come off to investigate.
I have the special tool, on my old tank it just turned in its threads, so you maybe lucky and be able to undo it? More than likely that pesky hose ( internal ) has come adrift ( Broken) -There is a sort of upside down flower pot inside the tank feed /supply which gets the returned diesel, in theory it means you can never run out even if you only had 1/20 of a tank on a slope etc, but in practice.....
Is a way to bodge it if you want! Seemed to work as far as I could tell.
Thank you for the reply. I have seen the pictures of the 'upside-down flower-pot' and the hose. I don't however, see how that works completely. I see that the hose in question feeds the flower-pot from the returned fuel (connection at top of tank) and that the fuel is drawn by the pump from the bottom of the 'flower-pot' However, it must somehow get refilled, or eventually the circulating fuel would run-down as some is used by the engine? If the level is above 1/4, it obviously enters through the largish hole at the top, but if the level is below that, how does it enter the 'flower-pot'? Is there some kind of slow-entry orifice?
Also, I imagine the said hose would need to break off from the top of the tank, where the return inlet is, otherwise the pot could refill itself from a broken-off hose at the bottom?
I used to run out of diesel when tank was below a 1/4 when going round bends or up hills etc. If i rolled to the bottom when it was on the flat I could restart after much cranking. The bodge seemed to work, but I did replace it with a new tank to be certain, I can now go right down to the reserve, ideally you need to remove tank to have a look, or do bodge on it, or simple answer is never go lower than a 1/4
As I remember fuel return goes into top left corner of the tank, supply from bottom? Everything else is a breather. The return has the internal pipe to the flower pot to keep fuel over the strainer, I think gravity takes place otherwise
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, I can't go below 1/4 and on a recent trip abroad I dared not go below 1/2, just to be safe, but it required frequent fuel stops, which became a pain.
Above, I was referring to the fuel feed to the engine presumably being from the strainer connection at the bottom-of / inside-of this 'flower-pot' but I don't understand how the fuel is supposed to enter the 'flower-pot' when below 1/4. It can't just rely on this internal pipe from the fuel return feed? There must be another fuel-entry point into the 'flower-pot' and, if so, why should it matter if the internal pipe breaks off?
Is it that if the strainer is not completely covered by the fuel flowing from the return, the pump will begin to suck in air?
By the way, how much is a new tank? (463, diesel, plastic)
I guess it works something like this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/768320-cis-ga...
The swirling action produced by the return fuel flow apparently helps draw in in new fuel through other orifices near the base of the 'flower-pot' (swirl-pot) by a venturi-effect.
Might be a problem if these other orifices are blocked. or internal fuel-return pipe broken, as then there would be now swirl effect to help draw-in fuel.
I'll remove the sender at the top, which is easier and then try to look inside the tank from there.
A new tank , minus sender about £400-500? Though was a sec hand on here?
I think an off road bang can break those internals?
You can remove sender and have a look, but one of those remote camera's would make it more interesting? You won't be able to see if fuel strainer blocked as internals cover that.
Most likely you will need new tank straps as well if you drop the tank. and a good idea to replace as a precaution anyway.
Try G Restorations on here, he sells SS tank straps much better idea than original
Funny thing was that although the fuel level was less than 1/4, it was completely fine the night before, even after just moving it a few ft in the car-park. The next day it would not start at all. It was only after spending 2 or 3 hours on dismantling various parts and noting that one transparent fuel-line appeared empty that I decided to try to add more fuel. Then, it started again quite quickly. However, although I had some quite severe shock absorbers fitted. I don't think it had any major bumps the day before - I had only driven it to work and back.
I'll have a look inside. Good idea about those edoscope cameras. I'll try to get hold of one first.
Thanks for all that. May have to try your offer M2dxd. At the moment I have a friend who has a VAT registered business, so I hope this will gain me access. My local dealer is very friendly but says no way can he order the tools any longer?