safety when working under a G
frankly crawling around under the G is scary and cramped even when it is on its wheels and tyres. At some point I am going to have to get this thing off the ground and probably off its wheels.
What is the safest way of working under the G? at least mÃÂnimising the risk of becoming a red stain under a collapsed axle stand etc....
the only thing I have thought of for the home user is axle stands and then a lot of railway sleeper pieces stacked under the frame in case it comes down on its own.
are ramps any better? is digging a pit the next best thing? something I havent thought of?
All I know is that I dont like being in a confined place with several tons of steel above my head and chest. heh.
Thanks
The G is not too bad to get under but I have bought some railway sleepers as ramps as they are guaranteed to hold the weight if needed, never trusted those cheap metal ramps they are so light they slide out when you are driving up them.
put 35" tyres on, that will improve your clearance quite a bit !!!!!!!
i have always used axle stands, or a pit, but on a cost effective diy basis axle stands are the answer!
just check that the axle stands are rated high enough, and under the axle tubes they should be very, very stable.
put 35" tyres on, that will improve your clearance quite a bit !!!!!!!
i have always used axle stands, or a pit, but on a cost effective diy basis axle stands are the answer!
just check that the axle stands are rated high enough, and under the axle tubes they should be very, very stable.
Ditto. And engage low and first and use the handbrake.
Commercial motor factors
I "think" they are rated at about 3 tonne each
Which means as a rule of thumb they will support 6 tonne
By 4 No = 24 tonne
No idea of the price mind
Main advantage is they are higher therefore more room.
Need a high enough lift jack to get her up there though.
A good quality 3 tonne trolly jack at less than £100.00 should be fine
And any stand is absolutely steady under the axles
Should be Ok
PS
I use the "mickey mouse" car type with complete confidence.
Marcus
Even if you had good quality ramps, work on those can be limiting, you will come to a stage where you will still need to jack the vehicle up and secure with axle stands (a/stands) to get the wheels off.
I suggest, getting a set of heavy duty commerical axle stands supplied from Motor Factors, the likes of Halfords will only stock cheap and nasty DIY a/stands fit for light cars only.
Choose something to carry 1.5 tons per stand, at least; with the commerical stands, the extendable post should give a height of approxmately 15" or 380mm lifting height.
Secondly, to match the lift of the axle stands, you want to choose a High lift hydralic jack of 1.5 tons capacity (sourced from Motor Factors). The jacking part must be able to raise as high as the height of the axle stands or you will find your self jacking your vehicle, in stages, fitting axle stands after the first raise, then to take the vehicle higher still, forced to use blocks of wood in between the jack and axle to gain extra height and re-adjust the height of the a/stands. To jack down, you will be repeating this operation in reverse. Unnecesarily, time consuming.
Regards,
Can you safely lift a G Wagon on a wheel free ramp?
Its rated at 2800 Kgs but cant really see where you would put the paddles, the body attachment tubes look favorite but they are tucked up a bit to get the paddles on.
I ruled out the sills as thought that would be the fastest way to remove the body!
Cheers
Joe
Can you safely lift a G Wagon on a wheel free ramp?
Its rated at 2800 Kgs but cant really see where you would put the paddles, the body attachment tubes look favorite but they are tucked up a bit to get the paddles on.
I ruled out the sills as thought that would be the fastest way to remove the body!
Cheers
Joe
i never forget borrowing my father in laws ramps,drove the g straight on them,and nothing happened, got out and found they had completly flattened them :lol: :lol: :lol:
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