help please
Having suspected valve clearance for rough idle, I did a compression test while I was at it.
No 1 cylinder very low all rest about 160-165.
Rechecked this afternoon and yep No1 very very low - I am suspecting head gasket? Is there anything else to do before I start pulling head off?
What's involved? is it difficult (timing chanin removal etc?).
Any oher thoughts on rings etc....
:( Your thoughts please
Hi is there any of the usual head gasket symptoms.....losing water ....oil in the radiator around the filler neck.....water in the oil (cloudy or creamy colour)....lots of steam from the exhaust when you first start the engine... rough idle when first started ....if its a ring problem the engine oil will smell of petrol.....did you check the seals on the No1 cylinder injector? the last 280 engine I did the blown head gasket had put water into No3 cylinder and the engine "hydraulic locked" bending the conrod which reduced the compression.....make sure you have the right tools and soak the exhaust manifolds nuts with WD40 or similar because the studs may come out of the cylinder head and bring the thread with them (steel and aluminium) not really a job for the "non mechanic" or faint hearted......
Hi If it has not been driven for a year..... take it for a 50mile drive to get everything hot and the carbon deposits blown out before doing anything like removing the head.if not taxed or Motd get the use of a field or track and drive it for an hour......then see what the engine sounds like.....after every 20 miles or twenty minutes ...make sure the oil is still clean.... the water in the radiator is clean and full..and start of with fresh petrol or add at least 5 gall to what is in the tank......you could be VERY surprised.....
Ok...
It's done about 150 mile since it passed m.o.t in December 07.
Just been out to check water - looks like there is a little bit of film on water and water appears a bity murky (but this could be deposits from engine/rad right?)
When started there was a bit of smoke and a bit of water vapour but nothing untoward as far as I can tell.
Compression test showed 60psi at tickover on number 1. and it made little or no difference to run engine on 5!
Also no visible / felt signs of injector 1 leaking (not really sure what am looking for?)
hi you are looking for oily deposits around the radiator filler cap base..is it smoke ie blue or black or white "steam" 60psi not good with engine running...the injectors are held in by plates with a central nut holding the plate...follow the steel pipes to No 1 cylinder loosen the nut at the end of the pipe and the plate that holds No1 and No2 injector in place...there are seals on the injector stem or lying in the injector pocket ...these decay and you get loss of compression as a result.if the engine has ever been seriously overheated!!! I read in your threads "rev counter replaced with temp guage.".this might be the cause...
Well remove head actually....
Before I start ripping things apart - any pitfalls to removing head?
Do I have to remove/split timing chain or do drive sprockets unbolt from front??
If you have done this job previously what issues did you have and what tips can you pass on? Any special tools etc etc.
Also a step by step guide would be handy??
All advice greatfully received.
Cheers Andy
andy it may be worth looking for a haynes passenger car book that covers this engine (try the w123 one possibly?) it will give you specifications etc, there will be some g wagen idiosyncracies but in the main it will be worth its weight in gold
I have the MB engine manual for the 110 engine. It gives detailed information about every step. You are welcome to use/buy it if you want. I rebuilt a 280E engine with it so it is well used. Its 2" thick I'm in Peterborough so you are welcome to collect.
Do you have a mate that can help you? When you remove the valve followers you need to press springs and remove collets and things.. gosh it was 10y ago.. I can't remember but it was tricky.
I must advise that you check everything else carefully before removing the head.
I've also got a timing light I want to sell. Inductive strobe
Thanks for help guys.
Roly can you pm me with more details on manual please.
Can anyone confirm if the head can be removed without disturbibg cams? - do the sprockets unbolt allowing chain to stay on?
cheers
Hi the M110 engine is a P*G to work on.... so it is always best to look at head removal as best avoided before checking ALL the other possibilities...if you know the engine has run hot it could be piston rings and scored bores...these engines are available for as little as GBP 150 in the G configuration.....easier to swop it out than try and repair...I know of two removed because the G' was fitted with an alternate diesel engine so both are good runners...think twice before spending lots of time and money on a your poorly engine.......
Thanks for help guys.
Roly can you pm me with more details on manual please.
Can anyone confirm if the head can be removed without disturbibg cams? - do the sprockets unbolt allowing chain to stay on?
cheers
No it can not. You do need to take the cam sprockets off, by unbolting them, not only that, you do need to remove the chain slides also before the head can lift off. To do this you will need to fabricate a small tool to draw out a dowel holding the slides in place. You do need to be carefull in refitting the chain tensioner! Or else, you are inviteing trouble. Leave this job for a professional, but if your are adamant in going through with this opt for a re-con. engine, but do research throughly, I do not mind in giving advise and guidence, I will just have to compose you a lenghty instruction that will take hours for me.
Regards,
this isn't good....
ps..thanks to Rakesh for all help so far (still need part 4 etc :D )
Hmm..the exhaust valve is chipped..now how did that happen?!
Just got the following parts prices from MB and would be grateful for your thoughts on prices and alternatives.
Head gasket set £94-00+vat (about double what I expected)
Waterpump £55-44+vat exchange
Exhaust Valves £26-80+vat each (wow!!!! expecting about £5)
Valve stem oil seals £22-82+vat set
q. Can I save money getting none MB parts or is this a false economy?
q. Should I replace anything else while head is off (I intend to reseat all valves)?
q. Should I consider anything else??
Andy
ELring are a respected OE manufacturer (I think my replacement gasket bought from MB for my M103 was ELring), though not sure about where to find a distributor:
http://www.elring.de/en/03en/031_ekat_online.php
Hi You can get most of the engine (M110) parts (but not valves) you need from GSF parts.your nearest outlet is Peterborough 01733 293444 or maybe Nottingham 0115 9503723.... DO NOT mention G Wagen.... ONLY M110 and the year..price examples timing chain P/N MO2303 GBP 19.80...head gasket set p/n M11440 from GBP 28.50... valve cover gasket p/n 11029 GBP 11.25...
cam chain tensioner/s if yours are worn. cam housing gasket and valve cover gasket.
Finding it difficult to get gasket in Peterborough and when I can find it only about £10 cheaper than MB!!
Any other suppliers in and around Peterborough?
Andy
Millfield auto parts in Lincoln road is where I get lots of stuff.01733312056
The dealer gives me 10% cause I'm in the club. Try John Steele he is the parts managaer
Hmm..the exhaust valve is chipped..now how did that happen?!
Usual causes are lean fuel mixture, wrong ignition timing, poor fuel, or most likely, insufficient valve clearence. Fuel mixture and ignition timing are usually for conviently engine technology but these engines are computer controlled.
As far as valave clearence is concerned, you should have hydraulic tappets, but these things can be faulty or, a flaw in the exhaust valve its self.
Regards,
FYI - ELRING UK DISTRIBUTOR
Dear Andy,
please contact our subsidiary in the UK, they will deliver you directly / inform
you about Elring partners in the UK:
Elring Parts Ltd.
Unit 2 Derwent Court Earlsway
Team Valley Trading Estate
Tyne and Wear
NE11 0TF Gateshead
phone: +44 1914915678
contact: Mr. Graham Dale (graham@elringparts.co.uk)
Bye, Carmen
Carmen Schrade
ElringKlinger AG
Max-Eyth-Str. 2
D-72581 Dettingen/Erms
Tel. +49-7123-724-607
Fax +49-7123-724-629
Fax +49-7123-724-85607
www.Elring.de
www.Elring.ru
Thanks for the explanation Rakesh, now I see why the chip is in that position.
Thanks for posting the details w4hsa, good for future reference.
Given that a big chunk of valve is missing and the edges look sharp (not melted)? How /Why has this happened??
Also pleased to say no damage at all to corresponding piston (No1).
Has anyone else experienced this sort of failure? how common is it?
thoughts please
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Hi fixwin.
First of all she does seem to be consuming a bit of oil and although inside rockers is absolutely clean (no white emulsion etc) the water does look cloudy.
Difficult to tell about excess water coming from exhaust as she doen't get used that often and has been stood for a year.
Haven't touched injectors? ....is this a likely fault?
What specialist tools do you refer?
cheers Andy