electric cooling fan conversion?
I'm pretty sure my viscous coupling on my cooling fan is not working so I have 3 options.
option 1 ... replace the viscous coupling fan with a new one. although this looks like it might be a big job as the radiator willl have to come out etc
option 2 ... modify the cooling fan so it is on permanently , not sure how badly this will effect fuel consumption?
option3 ... fit an electic fan cooling conversion which seems pretty straight forward?
Anyone got opinions on any of these solutions?
I am one for keeping originality, my option would be replace the coupling, you do not have to take the Radiator out to do the job.
The fan cowling needs to be taken out, unwind the fan with the viscous coupling, I think this is a Left hand thread, so to unwind, you will be winding on, so to speak.
Unscrew the fan from the viscous coupling, make sure you fit the fan blades the same way it comes off, other wise it is possible for the fan to be blowing into the rad. rather than sucking air from the rad.
Electric fans are ok, but for my tastes, it seems to have a poor looking attachment for the temperature sensor, a prod shoved into the radiator hose applied with silicone sealant, very amaturish, but functional to be fair.
Watch this space, my radiator is still playing me up so I am going to go for a custom made double pass alloy welded one with seperate oil coolers, remove the fan coupling all together and replace with double electric fans with automatic variable speed control box with manual override. (temp sensor built in to system not shoved under a hose clip like Kenlowe suggest). All this for less than the price of a new radiator from Merc and will significantly improve the cooling capacity. Another upgrade for later is an electric water pump to get better flow (and cool the engine down after it is switched off when really hot)
Hi the fan assembly is removable from the coupling( held by bolts) and is the same as the W124 / m 103 engine fitted in the car. heat from the engine makes the coupling tighten up and drive the fan at the same ratio as the pulley you can get overheating from lean mixture / ignition timing.coolant additives to stop leaks ..as I recall you had a leaking heater valve when you bought the G and people put anything from raw eggs to cracked block additives in the system.I would look towards only half the radiator cooling for a start.....remove the grill and drive the vehicle up to temp (needle above the 80c mark then feel the bottom of the radiator.... if its colder than the top there's a place to start.remove the thermostat and run it without... it should not get to 80c on a normal run.could be restricted galleries in the cylinder head or block...difficult to diagnose without pulling off the water pump and and pressure washing the ports.if you can hold the fan blades when the engine is hot ..yes its the coupling...otherwise ??????? rgds
when the engine is hot ( 1/2 - 3/4 level on the gauge ) , the fan can be turned by hand.
When driving the temp reads about 1/2 way or just under on the gauge. The fact the engine temp seems to stay consitant when on the move means I have taken this as a sign the general cooling system is OK?
I'll have to try and see if there is a variation in temp across the radiator.
Hi there should be considerable resistance when trying to turn the fan blades on the coupling at temps between 90c and 100c... if the fan is turning the water pump pulley against the tension of the drive belt then that shows that the coupling to be acting correctly. on the outer radius of the coupling hub there some protruding segments/lugs. if you fold these into the centre ring of the fan blade assembly the drive becomes constant. ie. the fan turns with and at the same speed as the water pump pulley whether cold or hot.you can reverse the process with gentle effort if required.is the belt tensioner performing as it should ???? rgds
definatly no resistance at all. Can turn the fan either way using my little finger.
If I bend the tabs, I won't be causing any long-term problems will I ?
Hi bending the tabs to lock the blades is a "get you home" device. technically it will cause a delay in the heating cycle of the engine although the thermostat will still control the water flow up to temperature.it will support your diagnosis that the coupling is causing the high temperatures you are experiencing....if the temp's return to normal with the coupling immobilised....
On this topic, I just took delivery from Kenlowe, a 17" suction fan to replace the visco fan and a 13" blowing fan to install in front of the A/C condenser and radiator.
My car will be finished from the paint shop next week and I might be able to install and test the new fan arrangement in August. The summer weather would prove ideal to see whether they'll be any improvement in engine operating temperature. We are currently at 43'C and expect August to go up to 45'C.
manual says no more than 300km with the lugs locked!
cheers simon
On this topic, I just took delivery from Kenlowe, a 17" suction fan to replace the visco fan and a 13" blowing fan to install in front of the A/C condenser and radiator.
My car will be finished from the paint shop next week and I might be able to install and test the new fan arrangement in August. The summer weather would prove ideal to see whether they'll be any improvement in engine operating temperature. We are currently at 43'C and expect August to go up to 45'C.
Wow 45'C My G is struggling in 14'C here at the moment, My new radiator cannot come soon enough!!
seems the summer brings out all the cooling gremlins with the M103.
i've just had my rad recored (middle aluminium section renewed, plastic bits reused), due to cold spots in the centre while the engine was at operating temps. the overheating problem when stationary for a long time has been cured.
i'm just thankful i don't have airconditioning..made the job a bit simpler.
a new rad was quoted at ~400, the recore ~220.
if you're doing it yourself, just be careful with the plastic tanks when removing/attaching the oil hoses..they don't need a lot of torque to achieve a seal.
also i've just got some of the "special" MB coolant recommended to solve the aluminium corrosion problem with this engine/rad combination, let's see if it's any better:
http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=2606&start=1
manual says no more than 300km with the lugs locked!
cheers simon
i think last time i checked the 300GE manual, it said 1000kms, maybe the 280GE is different?
This subject has been discussed in depth before in this forum, check my posting in general technical-"is this the end of my cooling dilema?"
280 gel cooling fans installation
I would like to share my experience in this subject. But try and read the above link first. I have 3 Pacet fans at the moment 16" on a thermostat,
12" (most powerful) on manual switch, 11" for aircon but can also be used together with 12" whan the going gets very though. :lol: Also water wetter is a good measure as well. My set up is working like magic and I can recommend it to anyone.
Pampos I wish I knew about your project, Pacet fans displace much more air . It would be a good idea to compare the air displacement values.
I also have a 11" aircon fan for sale if anyone needs it.
Hello Shakir!
It seems you have solved it for good, it is just as well when done by someone who knows how to measure all the currents to make sure there is no overloading of the circuits, I wonder if the latest 2007 G's use electric fans...there must be a reason they have kept that old setup so long..maybe it is water/wading-proof?!
Hi mustafa, how are you ? I hope all is well.
There is no overloading of anything because you have separate power,fuse etc for each fan direct from the battery, I have got relays to make things a bit more sophisticated, but you dont have to.
Incidentally, wading folks dont seem to like the pulley fans. But I have no experience with that at all. If you find out about the 2007 G's set up let me know please, It is interesting.
keep well.
Good to hear from you again, all's well here thanks :) Hopefully next time I go home there will be a close inspection of the latest G's in the showroom!
Shakir, I also have a Subaru Impreza Turbo which has a very nice sprinkler system for the intercooler. I've found a used setup from a crashed Impreza which I'm thinking of installing.
The Impreza setup has a manual switch for the sprinkler and a temperature controlled automatic actuation.
Regarding the electric fans, according to Kenlowe, the 13" fan provides an airflow of 1845m3/h through 2 radiators (condenser and radiator), while the 17" is the largest I can fit on the car to replace the visco fan.
All I can say now is good luck Pampos. Kenlowes are bit thicker than the slimline Pacets for internal instalment, but I am sure you have measured up everything before. One thing I know is, your motor will be much better now.
Can you tell me if anyone is selling OPTIMA batteries in Cyprus ? Or anykind of good quality AGM batteries. What happened to the LPG business any progress? We might see you in August
I've seen Optima batteries somewhere but I'm not sure where. Delco, Varta are widely available.
Regarding LPG, there is nothing new besides the information I communicated to you. To tell you the truth, I don't see this being available soon cause there is very little interest/pressure from consumers.
Thanks for that pampos, I will need a good AGM battery this year.
would you have any contact numbers/web sites etc? I like to make a comparison.
Over here Delcro/Delphi 105 amp marine semi traction will cost around 85 pounds with 5 years gurantee (starting/deepcycle dual purpose)
.I would look towards only half the radiator cooling for a start.....remove the grill and drive the vehicle up to temp (needle above the 80c mark then feel the bottom of the radiator.... if its colder than the top there's a place to start.
I just took the car out for a run & when I got back checked the radiator temps by placing my hand on teh back of the radiator around the cooling fan area.
It appears that the LHS of the radiator is quite cold where as the right hand side is quite hot :?:
I'm still sure my coupling is knackered but does it sound like my rad could be blocked too?
hi pambos,whats a sprinkler :?:
my uncle uses a sprinkler for his kolakasi in the village :?
look forward to seeing photos of your G in all its glory :!:
sprinkler ... I assume he means the fine jet of waterspray onto the intercooler to help suddenly decrease the intake temp thus being able to get an increase in power.
There is also water injection systems too of course
Hussein, now you opened my appetite. Kolokasi with meat cooked in the pot, or fried kolokasi with coriander ... Aman ....
Sprinkler might be the wrong word. More like a series of water jets spraying water o the intercooler.
haa......... :!: endaksi...... :!: tamam be gardas........ :!:
i remember bill moss mentioning something similar to cool down the intercooler but it wasnt water spray but a sort of chemical that turns very cold.
( anyhow,i will be in HOT AND SUNNY 8) CYPRUS in less than four weeks :!: mybe we can meet up)
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I just took the car out for a run & when I got back checked the radiator temps by placing my hand on teh back of the radiator around the cooling fan area.
It appears that the LHS of the radiator is quite cold where as the right hand side is quite hot :?:
I'm still sure my coupling is knackered but does it sound like my rad could be blocked too?
The coolant runs from right to left accross the radiator but shouldn't be noticibly cooler on the left hand side (ie should still be too hot to hold your hand on for long) Probably partially blocked radiator, my one was so bad I only had 3 or 4 water channels working, all fixed now with a re-core and is uniformly warmish 8)
it was almost too hot to hold my hand against on the right side where the left side was cold ... as in properly cold :)
Don't you just love old cars :roll: :lol:
Whip it out before it gets much worse and go for a re-core, will be good for all traffic and slow off roading after that 8) . Take the oil cooler pipes off first and plug them up so you don't lose too much oil, chuck the old coolant (just take the bottom hose off and let it all drain) I would order some hoses at the same time from Merc as its much easier to change these with the rad out, and consider junking the viscous fan at the same time, Oh and change the thermostat :D
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The fan cowling needs to be taken out, unwind the fan with the viscous coupling, I think this is a Left hand thread, so to unwind, you will be winding on, so to speak.
Unscrew the fan from the viscous coupling, make sure you fit the fan blades the same way it comes off, other wise it is possible for the fan to be blowing into the rad. rather than sucking air from the rad.
Electric fans are ok, but for my tastes, it seems to have a poor looking attachment for the temperature sensor, a prod shoved into the radiator hose applied with silicone sealant, very amaturish, but functional to be fair.
is the viscous coupling available seperate to the fan?