Front hub rebuild pictures.......

Does anyone have the PDF version of the instructions? Since the pictures are no longer available?

Hi

The brass bearing should not show any wear. Mine and jason jds g wagons have done some miles. I have done a few axles and i have never seen any with wear to the brass bush. The bush has a white ish coating but it just wipes off

The bush as far as i can see is to stop the oil seal from damage. The cv joint in theory should not run on bush , unless under extreme load but even then with good swivel bearings it should still be perfect

I am convinced it is just a buffer and the driveshaft should never run on the bush

Right then this is what i have found in the past

1 a loose wheel bearing will allow the cv joint to have a slight angle and touch bush

2 If people do not check the shims are correct when replacing swivel bearings it will mean the driveshaft is not perfectly in line with diff and hub centralised. This will mean it is constantly rubbing on bush

3 I have measured and checked a few axles and only one had knackered bushes. It did not have any shims and had no make on bearings. My guess is someone did bearings and lost or mixed up shims

4 Keep shims in place they came from at all costs. Measure new bearing thickness against old ones to be sure they are good and the same exactly.(within 0.15 mm), If so shims will be fine. I assemble hub without shaft etc and nip up steering arm bolts to see if there is any play. I aim for a very very slight resistance when moving hub lock to lock with bolts tight

40k on and all is still good

As for running no cv boots thats not good. CV grease is perfect for cv joints. High melting point grease is not as it gets pushed out of the way and the joint runs dry. Cheap boots fit and will be fine packed with proper cv grease. Also the grease can not go anywhere only stay in the joint. With no boots it will just get pushed out very quickly and no more will get in. The hubs have very little grease well below cv joint height. One of my joints had a bit of play and clicked on full lock. I swapped joints side for side so in forwards (99% of the time) its driving on the face with little wear. My boot had split on the bad joint side but its still going well now