engine change............
ive got a 1984 230ge, what are the easiest engine changes. like for like? or what others will drop staight in? if any? and are engine readily available?
thoughts please!
cheers simon
Hello,
the problem is the starter motor on a 230GE is on the opersite side on a 300GD or a 280GE so if you fit them you need to fit an other gearbox .
stick with a 230GE engine there seems to be loads about, strait forward job one out one in, be aware theres bits of loom all over the place make shore you refit them all or it will run rough as nails .
I will now sit back and await comment from people far more experenced than myself :D
Twodogs
Hi Simon The host vehicle would need to be in MINT condition with all the boxes ticked to justify the aggro of an engine swap.. I have a 617a factory turboed engine thats been waiting for the right host vehicle for the last 12 months....£200 plus will buy you a good M102/230 engine and if your that keen get it rebuilt for around £2000 with Crewe engines..then you know what you have got.....Then LPG it to help the running costs........
Dont go to crewe engines at all !!. get at 230 saloon and transplant, higher compression ratio.
peter, does this type of engine fit onto existing elecs,gearbox and other bits and bobs? where would i start to look for one?
been looking for m102.981 engines been quoted 1080 pounds to recon mine!!!!!
cheers simon
I think any of the 123 series engines and maybe the early 124 will be a straight fit. Thats the 230E . Try ebay there's plenty of scrapers selling there. Buy a whole car. I wouldn't advise an engine change
you need to change the sump over from the G to the 123/4 saloon engine.
now i have always wondered, is the gear box of a saloon 230e a different ratio to the 230ge? or is it all transferred at the diffs?
why wouldnt you advise an engine change roly? i cant scrap her for a knackered engine?!
simon
If your going to change the engine...before you do drain and flush the original. fill it with clear water ..no antifreeze and give it the wondarweld/barsleaks treatment....if you are still losing water its not the engine...if not I would continue to drive it until you find a good replacement...or another G'
Simon. I didn't make myself clear. I wouldn't advise swapping another type of engine, just stick with the 230. Certainly if you can find a runner in a car then that is the easiest way to go. If you want to swap to a different type, read the postings from Twodogs and Bill about their swap. Alot of work and time
I sorry to say at the mo I do not have the patients to read all of above to ascertain if you want to change the engine or have changed the engine or are in the process of. But what caught my eye was if your loss of water is on short journeys and not on long journeys, then, the first thing I would suspect is your water pump, these can in certain cases be self-sealing.
These can be difficult to diagnose but to be scienctific about it, I would suggest that you get a good garage fit some coolant dye in your coolant system and locate any suspected leaks using an ultra-violet light to locate any leaks. You can not be any more definate than that. But changing your engine just for a leak seems drastic to me. I do appreciate that I may not have the full facts, but if you are hell bent on changing your engine then nothing any one says may persuade you otherwise. Ifyou want to discuss this further get in touch.
Simon are you sure you are not a closet LR owner :? You seem determined to rebuild your G several times over, which is an affliction commonly held in the strange workings of a LR owners mind. :D :D
Don’t panic this sounds like a classic water pump leak to me, I’ve been tricked by one of these in the past, difficult to pin down. If it is get it sorted though or you could be looking at a new engine when it does fail completely.
Ah, just read Rakesh’s reply, good advice
Russ
anybody know where the oil pressure sensor is on a 230ge, its started to flicker! im now losing the will to G! possibly should have bought a landrover russ!!!
oil pressure sensors seldom fail.... contaminated oil would cause the light to stay on after starting the engine from cold and possibly to flicker at low revs when engine is hot ...if there is water in oil the oil turns to a creamy consistency like you had on the filler cap but now you can see it on the dipstick rgds
when its first started light goes out after a few seconds and stays out! it started to flicker after my 45 min motorway run this morning when i stopped on the slip road. checked dip stick and cylinder head and theres no large deposits of foam just a single drop by the filler cap, the dipstick is crystal clear! what effect would a poor fitting oil filler cap have? if any? il check oil pressure with a gauge anybody know where sensor is?
oil pressure sensor is at the base of the oilfilter housing...not easy to get at.have you done an oil and filter change recently.and what grade and type of oil?
changed oil mid december and used orig merc filter and 15w40 which im sure is whats stated in the book!?
could be result of poor servicing in the past ..what are the total miles on the engine? and why not try the "Slick 50" oil treatment scenario and watch for the flicker which I assume is only at idle when hot !!
right checked oil sender unit work ok, so pulled out the filter was blocked solid with what looks like a oily skin. the oil was only changed 3000 ago so would have thought it would be ok, just wondering if my motorway miles are loosing off all the crap which has accumilated round the engine over the years? if this is possible? will change oil and filter today! im doing on average about 1600-2000 per month in her so i guess this may be more than the usual! shes done approx 117k
possibly should have bought a landrover russ!!!
Sorry Si what was that?
The Darkside is waiting
the darkside did call but i saw the light(thats because i had diff locks and could get across that muddy field!!)
fixwin did the wunderweld thing, emptied out the water, flushed re flushed then filled up as directed. Did approx 100miles of motorway driving and then emptied out the stuff, flushed a few times till all was clear then filled her up with 50% antifreeze then have run now for 2 weeks with no water loss! my faith in the g is restored im guessing head gasket was a bit shot. there was no cross contamination into the oil. just stroll on summer so i can get started on the body!
thinking of a diesel lump soon for my G, options so far, iveco van engine and box or a landy 300TDI with a LDV van gearbox
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the reason for the change is i think the block is cracked! it loses water on short distances but over long distances little water is lost so cant see it being cylinder head? so just easier to drop new engine in than fart about head off exploring faults. i could be wrong and stand by to be corrected? i dont want to scrap my g as apart from the rear panels she is a ok underneath is mint !