ATF Fluid
( i ) Is Granville "Dexron" Ok for MB Autos, its the same price per 5 l as MB is for 1.
( ii ) How much fluid is trapped in transmission, compared to what will drain out, I presume one needs to run it a while and change again, and again ?
Cheers,
Marcus
For what it's worth I used cheapo stuff to flush it through (ran it for maybe 100 miles or so) and then replaced with some decent quality Dexron II. Not sure what make but I've been told that Morris's D2 is excellent and will still be cheaper then the merc stuff I guess.
Russ
dont forget you will have about a ltr in the torque converter, you need to spin it round to get to the drain bung to empty that out as well.
Bingo Ian,
That is what I was after, but how does one spin the torque convertoer around?, manually?, is the torque converter exposed when one drops the sump of the Auto box?It will possibly become clear when I start.
I have Zilch experience with Auto boxes.
Marcus
There’s a “bung†on the bottom of the bell housing. This may or may not actually be in place dependant upon previous history. I seem to remember it’s about a 17mm nut.
If you shine a torch through the hole you can see the torque converter.
Next rotate the engine via the front crankshaft pulley until you see an allen key in the torque converter. From memory it’s a 7mm allen key.
Remove that and you’ve drained the fluid.
Russ
Thank you Russ
Marcus
If I recall correctly, the manual says rotate the engine by cranking it! It'd have to be a pretty accurate crank at that! I have this job in mind next so soaking up all the info needed. Let us know how you get along
were is my torque convertor 50ge, havnet a clue ? any help would be good. Will need advice as to how to do this work.
Look at Russ's post there is most of the info you need, torque converter is underneath the car towards the front , If you do decide to do this work (I would think about it if youre not sure) make sure you are strict with cleanliness as one piece of stray fluff from a cloth or mud from underneath the atf sump can cause major problems.
If I recall correctly, the manual says rotate the engine by cranking it!
When they say crank they mean with a big extension bar on the crankshaft pulley not with the starter.
double posted
Torque convertor is located in the same place you would expect to find the clutch bellhousing.
Marcus
PS
I could not get the necessary purchase to turn the engine over at the crank, not enough room for a long / heavy bar / risk of damaging the radiator.
I couldn't turn it either, later referring to our technical rep, he advised the best way is to use a large flat-blade screwdriver to turn the torque converter in the housing once you have removed the plastic inspection cap, by the small protrusions on the torque converter. I tried by hand and with a small screw driver but was afraid of scratching the converter, tho with a well-positioned large screwdriver you should be able to do it (tho not sure what gear you must be in, neutral perhaps, while blocking the wheels and using the handbrake) or lifting the front axle(?).
Being in gear should not matter, its a torque convertor, remember one may be stationary with the engine running and in gear this either due to a slight "upwith" or holding on the brake, ie. the engine and torque convertor are only connected to the gearbox by fluid, and it only "locks up" at speed
So for all the speed the torque convertor is going to rotate at while being prised round by a screwdriver ?.
But we still got the engine compression to overcome, and I am surmising that I got more engine compression than most to overcome, being a direct injection diesel, old IDI diesels or petrols may be easier to turn in this manner?
I did halfheartedlt try to turn the torque convertor directly, but like yourself was nervous of doing damage, plus I could not get sufficent purchase, cant remenber any small protrusions ?
Cheers anyway
Marcus
quoting section 2702.10 of the 463 manual it states" draining oil...
unscrew screw plug in converter housing.crank engine until the oil drain plug is visible in the opening of the converter housing" .....if you de - activate the "Stop engine action" on the fuel pump so that the engine will turn on key but get no fuel so it can't start then any "amateur" could turn the key whilst you observe the hole in the housing until the drain bung appears.... best performed with the gear lever in Park don't you think ???
Toyed with turning/churning on key, whilst diesel supply "stopped", but wondered if the torque convertor would stop at the right place, ie the cylinder compression will cause it to stop at certain places only ?, but hey sure shes still going forrard, ( and back I hasten to add )
PS
thanks for the correct procedire for "dipping" for the ATF Peter
Marcus
The only reason I didn't fancy using the starter was that usually the procedure with the torque converter is after you have drained the atf from the main gearbox leaving it a bit vulnerable if it starts or takes too many revolutions to find the drain hole.
I use this method:
Undo inspection cover
Remove HT lead central on Distributor cap
Transmission in PARK
Self underneath vehicle looking through hole in casing
2nd Person in drivers seat "ticking" starter until drain becomes visible
If not 100% aligned, shift to neutral and move Torque convertor with screwdriver, extension bar or any other suitable lever until aligned
Then proceed with rest of procedure.
Hi guys used a screwdriver on my converter turns ok. Suggest you change the copper washer when changing the drain plug, and be carefull not to over tighten.
Morris ATF is very good
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Cheers Russ,
Marcus