HELP Auto transmission fluid changed but no drive????
Help,
changed autobox fluid and filter last week, went to start her to then select all gears before rechecking level but battery flat!! Typical - charged battery.......dead.
Purchased new battery today, started fine (after split battery termnal replaced!! - just to keep me cheerfrul). Select various gears - Nothing no drive???
Checked oil level - still above min mark??? :?: :?:
Any clues?? :?
I take it you havent removed any linkage while messing around underneath. Double check linkage.
I take it T box is not in neutral.
how many ltrs have you put in I think it takes about 7 including torque converter.
When you change the filter and oil on the auto box you must make sure everything is spotlessly clean. Any small particle that gets into system can block the finely tuned valves inside box. Make sure the filter is nipped up tight because if its not it will suck in the oil through the neck and any deposit's can bypass this and make there way into the valves prior to the brake bands and so you wont have any pressure. Was the gearbox flaring when it was changing gear. Merc autos are bullit proof but lack of maintainence can kill it eventually.
PP...the plot thickens,
tried it again in workshop and there was drive?? Then last night I had to drive 30 odd miles home it drove ok but seemed to 'bleed down' when I stopped - by this I mean, if i stopped at lights and put in neutral and then when ready to go slipped into 4th the revs would increase for about 2 seconds before drive would start (almost like pressure was building?). Checked the oil level and it was perfect??
Any thoughts?
What's flaring??
flaring means when its changing up the engine will rev high before it engages the next gear.
No sign of flaring - only the delay before drive is taken up after sittiing in neutral?
Any other ideas?
I refiilled with standard dexron II fluid - does this meet all MB specs?
Anybody else had this sort of problem??
..........and
just taken her out for another spin - definately feels like oil pressure/volume has to be pumped up before drive starts when changing from N to 4 or N to R??
Flaring - YES when I put into drive the engine revs more than the expected before drive builds (feels like clutch slip in a manual).
How long should it take from N to 4 or N to R before vehicle moves?? Mine seems to take an age possibly 3-4 seconds and then quite gently? Other (none MB) auto's I have driven seem alot more positive taking up drive!
Finally, my select lever does't want to go into first? - related?? (I can't tell you if this has always been the case )
Cheers Andy
When you say it wont go into first can you not lock lever into first ?. Look down into the selector, you can see a small metal switch, when you cliclk it over to the right the stick lever should push the switch over which then sends the message to the box to select first gear. This is for downhill decent.
I have so say both my G's need a couple of seconds from cold, for pressure to build up to engage rev or or drive from park or neutral.
additional information...
after read my GWOA provided 460 workshop manual on CD - I realise that the previous oil level reading may not have been carried out correctly (a friend changed the auto filter / fluid and sump gasket).
So started her up and let run for a few mins then ran her up and down drive a few times until warmish - put into park and then took level (as described). The fluid level was about 10mm above max mark (about same difference as min to max)!! According to my manual at 20-30 degrees the fluid should be on max mark or about half way between min and max (depends on transmission numbers). Then decide to check how much ATF I have left from 2 x 5 litres, wait for it...about 1.5 litres!!! :shock:
Now this hopefully is my problem......questions
q1. How much fluid is min to max?
q2. Will this have done any long term damage?
q3. Am I clutching at straws when the problem is more serious?
cheers Andy
My advice.
Drain down and start again.
Ok - spent the last hour taking fluid out of autobox.
Started her up, went through gears put in park and checked level PERFECT half way between MIN & MAX.
...went for a test run and it would hardly pull itself off the drive - even needed low box on a small incline! Revs but little/no drive bu88er!
HELP!
Where are you
Uppingham (Between Peterborough and Leicester).
Sorry - hope I didn't give impression that I have broken down (vehicle is safe on drive and not going anywhere at moment).
Advice or a spare V8 with autobox would be good :)
No I wondered where you lived in case it was on my wanderings and I could call in.
Call me on my mobile 07950005029
Bill Moss
could be the brake bands. what was the box like before you change oils eyc.
Had a chat with Bill Moss last night (thanks again Bill).
He pointed me in the direction of the rubber diaphram/gaskets held in place by circlips on the side of the box. Haven't had chance to investigate further but the reasoning makes perfect sense.
Only driven the thing about 25 miles before changing fluid (didn't notice undue delay in drive). Only once all fluid/filter/sump gasket replaced.
Cheers
Hi could you give me a few more details, model year type of g/box i.e. cable or rod type of control pressure cable. Any leaks?, ill try to help but it does sound odd was it ok before the oil change? or was it slippy between the gears, is it worse hot or cold. Anything you can add might help
Regards Terry
Hi MRKBENZ, thanks for responding.
q.it's a 1983 460 I can give you chassis number if you need it.
q.Cable or rod??
q.Leaks slight (nothing bad)
q.Hot or cold - little difference
The storey so far :-
Bought G about 6 weeks ago - drove ok, picked up seemed to drive ok no delays (Started to overheat after 11 miles so rang RAC therefore limited driving experience). Got back to my mates, sorted cooling (mud in rad and thermostat not opening). Time for a good service blah blah.
Anyway changed autobox fluid (incl torque convertor) put new filter assembly and gasket sump. Tried to start engine (to select gears to fill passageways in autobox) battery dead. Following weekend (stood for a week) new battery fitted, engine started all drive positions selected. Once happy fluid level was ok attempted to drive - Nothing?? Walked away unhappy. Following evening my mate tried it again - success it moves under own steam forwards and backwards. Then I decided I would pick it up a few days later - when I reversed off drive it took about 3 seconds before drive was taken up?? This continued for the 25 miles home (seemed fine once on move?? only occured when going out of Park of Neutral to any gear??) .
Stage 2. Took it up to petrol station a couple of days later and it seems to be about same or a bit worse?
Stage 3. Checked level again after reading up - thought there may be too much oil in box so drained off 1 litre (when engine warm autobox level is half way between min and max). Test drive - she would hardly pull herself off drive, engine reving hardly any drive?? Had to turn round on slight incline, needed low box!!
Any ideas?
I was going to drop oil and filter next to make sure filter is seated properly and sealing ring in place?? Also will any dexron II fluid be ok?
You havent yet checked the diaphrams I told you about, I now have the workshop manual for the auto box.
Hi Bill,
no not had chance to do anything yet - being buying a garage (but it does have a house attached).
Had a look at the manual and it looks like a squeeze with gearbox in-place. Have you managed to change the diaphrams in situ?
Cheers Andy
Hi Bill,
. Have you managed to change the diaphrams in situ?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes
Bill,
I've checked my 460 workshop manual (ref 27.61 Autobox). It's difficult to tell which seals we spoke about? On the side with the single large round cover the manual shows a snap ring 336, cover 331, snap ring 324 (circlip), piston 316, spring 325 and finally a lip seal ring 321 - I am assuming the lip seal ring needs replacing??
On the dual cover side my assumption is sealing ring 400 and lip sealing ring 370 for the first and sealing ring 428 and sealing ring 434 for the second??
Are these correct?
None appear to be diaphrams just sealing rings?
Please advise
...update.
Finally got some time to play with G on Monday - dropped autobox sump, nothing unusual in there. Removed filter all looked ok (filter intke not squashed or anything). Checked for seal between filter and box...gone, well not still on filter anyway! Checked on underside of valve block there it is mmmm looks a bit mis-shaped?? Perhaps it's been sucking in air thinks I (clutching at straws). Anyway put it all back together - filled with oil (the oil that I had just removed) and started her up... went from P2R and feel drive being taken up, same from N2D!! Gets out and checks oil level - not even on stick. Went up and down drive a couple of times....it seems to work. Got a bit brave up and down the close where I live...all feels good!!! Excellent
So looks like the filter wasn't seated properly and sucked air rather that fluid - hence the change in levels from 'Broken no drive' approx 50% between min and max to 'Fixed'!! not on stick!!. Will top up a.s.ap
Has anybody else experienced this?
PS thanks for all the help chaps (you know who you are)
Hi W4HSA,
Going thru similar with my 1984 Diesel Auto.
Did you adopt any special procedures when refilling the auto, i.e. refill the torque convertor separately? (If this is possible), or did you simply fill down the dip stick hole?
Can you recall how many litres? Hoping to avoid the overfill scenario.
Cheers
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Thanks for replie PP.
Haven't touched linkage and don't think I've caught it with anything?? Will check.
Transfer box already checked.
Having drained torque convertor is there any sequence to selecting gears to refill?? - I let it tickover in P for about 1 min then went into all gears for about 5 secs each but nothing. No movement forward as transmission slack taken up, not even a change in engine note?