General advice for newbie
So I've finally picked up the G. Here are some observations:
1. Car looks great!
2. Fuel economy is pretty awful
3. Ride quality - nothing like a car. I haven't really driven an SUV before, especially not a hardcore off-roader like the G. Is it normal that the ride is so bouncy? I can literally feel EVERY bump on the road, however small. And I can feel body roll when turning. Maybe this is a result of sitting so high up and I'm not quite used to this sensation? Or have the shocks gone? The rear does sit a tad higher than the fronts.
4. Gear change is seamless. So smooth. Only thing to note is that the engine revs to almost 3000 before shifting in to 3rd. Is this normal?
5. Which gear should the manual box (is that what it's called?!) be engaged in? I put it into N yesterday and engine felt quite rough. Super smooth otherwise.
6. I will put the number plate up for sale if anyone is interested let me know.
7. Any advice on nice alloys (don't mind replicas) appreciated. Also will sell the current Fox's.
Thanks!
1. Great
2. To be expected, loads of tips and tricks to address that
3. To be expected, though its should be more 'wallow' than bouncy. Maybe someone here can comment on why bouncy??
4. You may want to 'reset' the auto box to your driving style. If its manual then I am stumped.
5. Can't help there
6. Whats the plate?
7. Load to choose from. post em up and we will comment! :)
Spider1V
My 2 cents...
1. Car looks great! - certainly does, even with the blinged bits. I even like the alloys.
2. Fuel economy is pretty awful - that's pretty much any 4x4 and the G is not much different. About 18mpg form yours. Thats 2 tonne of car and 4 wheels to move.
3. Ride quality - nothing like a car. I haven't really driven an SUV before, especially not a hardcore off-roader like the G. Is it normal that the ride is so bouncy? I can literally feel EVERY bump on the road, however small. And I can feel body roll when turning. Maybe this is a result of sitting so high up and I'm not quite used to this sensation? Or have the shocks gone? The rear does sit a tad higher than the fronts. - Sounds about right. The roll is due to the height. The 463 model is 'firm'(I found them harder than the 460 model) but quieter. Maybe the shocks/springs have been replaced with slightly harder and hence taller ones. Difficult to tell. My G drives like a big car - smooth and lumbering - but goes anywhere.
4. Gear change is seamless. So smooth. Only thing to note is that the engine revs to almost 3000 before shifting in to 3rd. Is this normal? - I have a manual, but for a petrol auto I would think it wouldn't change up until 5k revs if you put your foot down and 3k seems right for normal driving. Only diesels would change up at 1.5-2k.
5. Which gear should the manual box (is that what it's called?!) be engaged in? I put it into N yesterday and engine felt quite rough. Super smooth otherwise. - I have the older 460 (and manual) which is different. Others can comment. I am guessing its just the high ands low ratio control, since the 463 is permanent 4x4. Its pretty obvious when in low ratio!
6. I will put the number plate up for sale if anyone is interested let me know. - nice number for a 463 model G.
7. Any advice on nice alloys (don't mind replicas) appreciated. Also will sell the current Fox's. - Keep what you have or get re-furbed MB ones. Don't get replicas.
Every day driving ought to be in high ratio and in D; swb cars are bouncey compared with lwb
5. Only use the hi / low lever when auto lever is in N. Either stopped or moving slowly. Gear change in low is not as smooth as in high ratio.
Have no idea why engine sounds rough in N.
Hi
1. that is a bonus !!
2.there is a technique to driving the petrol auto ...when your rpm reaches 2000 lift you accelerator foot and it will go up a gear ..repeat this so that you never exceed 2000 rpm in any intermediate gears
62mph is the optimum for economy ( 22mpg ) on a run ..;only 16/18 average for town driving
these figures are based on the engine being tuned PROPERLY!!! ***
3. ride quality is best on conventional wheels ( 16" ) with good quality tyres set at ( in old money at 32/34 psi
4. explained above
5.define MANUAL BOX thisG has a normal automatic Gearbox.... engaging N should leave you with no drive ..the second lever High and Low is for the transfer box... high for normal driving low for in the mud..DO NOT engage" P " when vehicle is moving in either direction it will shear the pin that locks the gearbox for parking ( very expensive to rectify)
6. your choice
7. go back to standard 463 wheels for allround comfort
*** engine correctly tuned should start first turn (all weathers) NO accelerator and idle at around 1200rpm until warm ( dropping to 700rpm when hot) and run smooth enough to stand a glass of water on the cylinder head with no ripples.. engine should not show increase in RPM after heavy braking ..if it does you have vacuum leak problems ....
Hi
Item 5 is high and low speed range for road and muddy surfaces G' is built with constant 4 wheel drive ... putting the gear lever into" park" when moving is instantly expensive and you still ahve to study when to use the difflocks
5. I was referring to the transfer box here. So are you only supposed to shift this gear if the auto box is set to N? Is it terminal if shifted when the car is turned off and in P?
Engine off and stationary, I can't see that would do any damage.
If you try in P or while in any gear, the noise will warn you it's not happy.
Always go from high to low either stationary or going slow.
From low to high can be done while going a bit faster, just nicer if stopped or going slow
Auto in neutral always.
Manuals only can be done in gear.
I didnt put the car into P whilst driving! I have other Mercs and know how to drive them! I meant what is the impact of changing the transfer box when the car is already in P (ie, stationary, parkedm engine off).
Thank you
The transfer box shifter is marked G-N-S. G or Gelande (cross country) is towards the front of the vehicle and is the low ratio setting.
You can change ratios on the 'fly' (when moving) to maintain momentum but from high to low should be done at a speed that will not over rev the engine. As a rule of thumb changing from high to low ratio in the same gear will double the revs.
To change between high and low ratio simply put the auto box selector in N and then move the transfer lever from S to G then select D in the autobox. The auto box will sychronise with the speed of the transfer box to select the correct gear. You can then change manually if you need to.
If you are asking about the use of the transfer box then I imagine that you might have a few questions about the difflocks ??
yes this is my first car with locking diffs so have never used them before!
I doubt I will ever need them to be honest but read through the manual yesterday and it all makes sense now so thanks!
However i'm not sure the diffs are working properly as the yellow lights do not come on on the swtiches? Like I said, I will probably never use them but it'd be nice to know that they are there should I ever get stuck somewhere
Hi Shakter,
The reason I was keen to discuss the transfer box and difflocks with you is that there is no surer way of causing a lot of very expensive damage to your drivetrain than by using them incorrectly. Although you have obviously now read the manual which will hopefully prevent any accidental damage.
If your G has not been used offroad regularly as they get older the actuating levers for the difflocks can seize up or the hydraulic fluid takes on water (or leaks) and the difflock is difficult or slow to engage. The locks only work in sequence as per the numbers on the buttons, so try locking the central diff (middle button) first. Try it whilst stationary and if the red light does not come on try driving forward and backwards slowly to help the spines line up. Repeat this process for the rear and front lock as well. The yellow activation light comes on first and then the red light comes on to tell you the diff is locked
It is better to try this out on a field or similar surface because there is less strain put on the transmission. you should also be aware that even if you do get them locked they may be difficult to diss-engage which would cause you problems. My advice would be to have them checked out and serviced by a competent mechanic and then all you have to do is cycle them through the lock / un-lock process once a month and they will be there when you need them.
Thanks bigblock. Yes I did read somewhere that it can be difficult to disengage the diff locks so I think I will just get them checked out rather than try to engage them myself.
Great post there Big block +1
Spider1V
Hi
difflocks can be a very neglected item
hydraulic fluid flushing every three years is A Must as is flushing the brake system hydraulic oil
if there is no record of this having been done and the fluid in thr reservoirs is cloudy or discoloured get the service done as a priority...
the 463 difflock system is electro vacuum hydraulic activated so lots of things to look at
lack of use is probably the biggest offender
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Wow thanks guys there is a lot of knowledge here! Much appreciated. Some responses:
2. Will definitely use the 'lift off the pedal at 2k revs method'. Any other pointers here? Thanks.
3. The ride is quite 'wallowy' as you say. It's just very bumpy on speed bumps (to be expected I guess!). When turning I keep feeling as if the car will tip over - I think I just need to get used to the handling dynamics and grow my confidence.
5. I was referring to the transfer box here. So are you only supposed to shift this gear if the auto box is set to N? Is it terminal if shifted when the car is turned off and in P?
6. The plate is "A 463 MGW". I've had many positive comments on it. Let me know if anyone here is interested in purchasing.
7. I would love some refurb'd MB alloys but dont have a massive budget to be honest. If you can point me in the right direction of anything decent for sale (I love the Brabus style alloys) please do let me know!
Oh and one more thing - I really want to get the spare wheel cover on the car. I have the case and the outer ring but nothing else. What exactly do I need to buy and where from?!
Thanks again everyone. I will try to get some pics up soon.