Engine feeling gutless
Hi
It might be my imagination, but my 300GD is feeling a bit gutless. No change to the sound, although it may be being a little breathy, can't quite work out if that is just because I am concentrating on listening to it. What should I che k for initially? Is there anything obvious I should be looking for?
Thanks
Good luck in finding an answer - just afraid that this will open up a slew of comments along the lines of how can you tell (when gutless in first place). Just add I love my 300GD and the challenge of driving it - it's only underpowered when compared to modern expectations i.e. you can't afford to be a lazy driver like you can in most modern cars. Lets see where this ends...
As for solution; fuel blockage possible, not firing in all cylinders (would sound funny, fuel/injectors etc) or better still wait for advice from somebody who really knows. Stewart
Hello Audiominx,
Air filters should be renewed every 36,000 miles or every two years; when replacing the filter, mark the mileage and date of renewal on the air filter. Fuel filters should be renewed every 24,000 miles.
To test the air filter, simiply remove it from the filter housing and compare if there is a difference in driving performance with and without the filter. Binding brakes is another item to check for. To check this, jack either each wheel at a time or front or rear axle. Turn the front wheel(s) by hand, if the wheel rotates, you are fine. Dab the foot brake and turn the wheel again.
For the rear wheels do the same but do make sure that the hand brake is released. If you are jacking the axles, do chock the wheels front and rear to prevent the vehicle rolling and conduct this test on flat ground.
Check the acclerator cable for breaks on the outter cable, particularly, by the bracket mounted on the engine. Test on
a runing engine; as you depress the acclerator, does the engine rev. immediately? Or, after some pressing of the pedal?
The colour of exhaust smoke can be an indicator of problems; if, when the engine is revved, is there black smoke? If so, it could be a blocked air filter or fueling problem.
Ps, glad to see you have been volunteered to keep notes for the AGM, I for one, will definately nominate you for the Secretary's post.,
Cheers
I can't be secretary, I don't have time. Am trying to do my law degree as well as full time nights. I don't even have any spare time to myself any more!
Thanks for the advice. Will print it off alongside what Gav has sent me to sort it out. I don't think there is anything major so it does sound rather like filters.
Glsd to see your PC is back up and running
Hello Audiominx,
Bit late to see this item and probably late to suggest a good clean of the in-tank filter on the fuel pick-up. There is a very fine mesh on the end of the fuel gauge tube and this can be partially blocked by minute particles. Best cleaned once a year and is easy to do through plate in rear load area floor. You need to withdraw the whole fuel sender unit but as its on top of the tank there is no need to drain anything.
Pistonhead's advise on brake binding very good, caliper pistons I have found sieze up quite easily .
Good luck.
Regards,
Rowland.
I vote its the brake callipers or binding wheels.
After months of wet weather, the Olympics brought weeks of dry and some warm. I bet its dried up and seized. Could be front disks or rear shoes. Blocked filters normally creeps up on you.
Just wanted to share some observations on this topic. I dont know if the throttle control rods and lever s are similar on the diesel cars compared to my 280ge K Jetronic car?
I was'nt too thrilled with the acceleration of my car and have been playing around with timing to no avail.
On the right passenger side bulkhead in the engine bay there is a bracket with a rubber ring about 2 inches diameter. A rod about 7 inches long pivots on this and is connected to the fuel injection and the throttle/gearbox links to the left. Mine had perished (new one on order). This was affecting the opening of the throttle in relation to the pedal.
Once a bit of rubber was wedged in to take up the slack the revs at idle rose from about 500 to 1500rpm.
Basically I would say that the car is probably 15-20mph faster for the same 'old' throttle position and changes gear at 4000 instead of 2000 when flooring throttle. This should do something good for the fuel consumption and give it enough power to pull the family up hill.
D
Just to add....I also found a vacuum leak at a hose connection. I think this pipe connects to the gearbox.
The car now hold gears longer ( I have an auto box). 3rd gear with the pedal to the floor changes to 4th at 5300rpm instead of about 3000rpm with the leak.
So check all hoses for vacuum or hissing leaks.
D
'Is there anything obvious I should be looking for?'
A 500??? :)
Spider1V
In the time it has taken for you to reply with this pithy and witty comment I reckon I could have got my 300D up to 60 and stopped again... Bah, who needs a 500, might as well own a Mondeo if you want that sort of vehicle response.
Am surprised it has taken this long for a productive comment, probably struggled to get out of your heated seat and no doubt the computer booting up was to slow...
Now, how do I get low range working with this manual gearbox-thingy so I can climb that (mole) hill?!?
Wow you can get your 300 up to 60? Good for you! (oh I do hope that is MPH and not KMH?). In life we all need a 500 and as for a Mondeo, pray tell, what is that?
I do apologise for the slight delay in my response, as both the heated seats AND air-conditioning, coupled with the wood, leather, 6 stack CD player, power and shear presents of a 500 can sometimes make it somewhat difficult to rush to a response as one is generally out having fun, listening to the wonderful rumble of a V8, as It does have a certain refined, non agricultural pitch.
WRT to the mole hill and engaement of the low ratio, one does tend to stop, move the shorter of the two gear stick thingy in to the ‘G’ position (aka known as the G spot) and then progress in a gentile fashion and park up on the pavement or as we call it ‘true off roading’. Why sometimes one even engages the various diff loc’s especially if the pavement is rather high.
I do hope this does clear up any misunderstanding?
Spider1V
Brigadier General
Wood & Leather Brigade (Power Division)
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Fixwin38 has provided a good list of things to check, filters are at the top of his list. They have huge amounts of torque, they just won't leave a boy-racer standing at a junction. I think filters are probably the most likely cause as it has come on fairly suddenly and is not making much differene
Will replace those first as are the cheapest option!
And normally i too am happy with mine.