460 Fuse board upgrade
Post on P3 I came across a while ago suggests an upgrade to the W460 bullet style fuse board to use the blade style that is a drop-in replacemenf for the bosch unit that the 460 (and evidently Porsche 914) use.
forum.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php
The existing fuse board on my truck is OK, but that old style of fuse isn't as reliable as the bladed type and I'm thinking about giving this a go. Anyone here done it?
Close but suspect not completely drop in as ours are one part and that is 2 fuse blocks. I knew about it but never did it.. must be able to get the fuse carriers without the pressed tinwork in Euroland I suspect.. need to check Bosch or similar parts books.
Note.. drill a wee hole in the 2 covers so that if you do get wet/leaks... that the water does not sit in the cover .. and then the permanently live fuse fuzzes away until the contacts are no more. BTDT due to windscreen area leak so now have a soldered on tab for that fuse. It would be a nice upgrade as those fuses are the most unreliable bit of my G... always need a tweak and reseat at least once a year.
Couple on ebay too if you look for 914 fuse; Same £100..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/J-West-Porsche-914-Fuse-Box-Upgrade-Great-New-Item-/370704723361?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564fb92da1
Yes it looks very close though.
When I took my dash out in the summer I took a close look at the whole loom and board.. I don't have them apart now to compare exactly but at the time I looked at this swap and I'm pretty sure it will just bolt in with all of the connectors swapping straight over.
TBH its a bit of a frivolous upgrade because the bullet fuses work ok mostly.. on the other hand, they are prone to corrosion on the ends and this makes the whole thing go away.
Hope your upgrade goes well.
Hope this does not rain on your parade... but looks like some early VW beetles/campers used a similar setup.. not a surprise for the expensive Beetles (Porkers)!
Little ebay.co.uk search for "fuse box 12" throws up 6 of the same fuseboxes in UK for about £10 delivered.
No idea if same but suspect so as for £60 you just get fuses, pressed tin and bit of customer service..
Twin Clear plastic cover:
Width: 52mm
Height (inc thumb screw): 55mm, or 42mm otherwise
205mm between mounting holes
210mm Overall length
Side entry 6.3mm spade terminals
Will have to check to see if side entry terminals are OK.. I think ours are rear entry.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blade-Fuse-Box-12-Way-Universal-Fuse-Holder-/1...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-12-WAY-BLADE-SPADE-TYPE-FUSE-BOX-HOL...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fusebox-12-way-with-twin-transparent-lids-/140...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vw-Splitscreen-Camper-Beetle-12-way-Fusebox-Up...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-HIGH-QUALITY-/130...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blade-Fuse-Box-12-Way-Universal-Fuse-Holder-/1...
I did spot someone with those, but I had discounted because as you say, they had their connectors on the side whereas the orignal Porsche ones were rear as are the 460s
I couldn't find anyone with anything else either.. I ordered this one from Pelican because a couple of people had commented that they thought they should drop in.. You've given me reason to doubt that again now though.. email to Pelican has gone off for clarification - as you say it would be an expensive way of buying it!
The Pelican pictures show side terminals I think.. you can see the silver flash of them coming out in the gap between the body and the steel surround. If you mounted it deep enough/far enough from the surrond this would not matter.. The G looks like the fuses are at about 20 degrees to the mounting panel ... not sure if the whole thing is tilted.
Will try and have a rumage tonight.. I am going nowhere as I await a new rear pipe and silencer box so fuel tank has been dropped. One of those classic pre MOT.. see a 3mm hole 20mm from end of tail pipe the night before MOT.. poke it, becomes 40mm diameter so weld it.. in doing so the silencer unzips at the seam due to the stress caused by pulling/twisting tail. Really mean to get a proper SS big bore for the turbo.. but £460 from Powerflow agent who said they had done a bunch for a local shooting estate up here.. catch 22 .. need exhaust to get MOT.. need MOT to get to exhaust mannie.. so cheaped out with £140 for back half of system. Seems I could build my own 63mm system for about £200 of material and already have the 316 MIG wire from a previous SS exhaust repair...
Lol, it reassures me to hear that this kind of things happen to others too!
It does look liek the are side entry - annoying as I had thought it a good solution (I should have followed through with an email to the guy on P3 who found it originally to see how he had got on I guess).
From memory I thought the mountings were rear mounted perpendivular to the fuses though? you think they are @ 20 degrees off horizontal? I'll also unbolt tonight and take a look.
re. SS silencer - were you planning to re-route it to side exit?
Silencer work is called.. "it is guaranteed not to snow again this year" .. aka car has sat for 2 years after fitting an iron 'box, new rear springs and both mounts and a full rebuild/windows out/doors off respray before that .. so for 2 years it has gone to MOT station for it's mileage! Does shunting a 406 Unimog count as mileage? Anyway it took 6 goes to get around the last bend on Friday in the Rav4 on my farm track on the only day in 2 years that the G has been disabled!
I was not thinking of rerouting silencer..there is room over the top of the tank (humm.. guess I have known STT big bore system to wear a hole in the diesel tank.. so maybe not). Anyway.. moving it to a side exit.. guess starting it at the front wheel arch like the factory? Far more vunerable than the stock position and you would need to cut front chassis tube and more of my expensive wheel arch liners and it leaves a hot manifold gettting covered with cold spray.. not clever IMHO. I have seen a factory option to stop just in front of rear axle; does that qualify for MOT as then exhaust does not terminate beyond limit of car? TBH it does not get enough use to spend so much time on it.. and once 'Mog has a snow plough on it then should be no need.. well except we get 4ft drifts every few years... so it had better be a big plough.. plus not friendly for 20 miles of Dual carriageway when it "might" snow =:-)
It is tight in the fuse box.. but yes rear entry but then a cranked over fuse presentation so must have longer legs on one side.
LOL :D
I'm just trying to visualise the routing.. I ask because its on my shopping list soon (before the 606 goes in). Local place is going to do it in 304 - I was thinking of 2.5" which I'm told is enough until you get north of 400HP
I'm tempted by the idea of is a twin silencer system (for extra quiet runnng) with an electronic valve too switch in a straight through bypass for the obvious benefits.
Point taken re routing though.. My current exhaust is wrapped in addition to the on tank protection, but with a bigger pipe that might be a problem.
I'll take a look at the fuse board and report back on what pelican say.
Not going to fit I'm afraid without tinwork and some double wire endings.
Between mounting holes is 168mm with M5 bolts
Max length it will take is 184mm between the L shaped tinwork that holds it.
Also while there is a single rear spade for input.. for every output there are twin male spades and these are mounted into multi spade housings of 8 or so at a time.
Could make new tin work.. could make tails to allow twin outputs.. but I think another search is required.. unless the USA do you proud.
My conclusion is the same.
Its not a big deal to re-fab the metalwork of course, but adding twin tails brings another set of connections into the equation and its not like they are weatherpacks either.
The proper solution would be to make up a back-plane I suppose. I could do that but for a high quality installation it will be a lot of work.
Pelican will cancel the order, but now I've got this bone I think its worth pursuing through to the guy who makes these things as I've read a couple of posts where he says he can source alternative layouts. The original is by Bosch and you would have thought that there is a chance there is a drop in.
So the word on the street (or from the Pelican sales guy anyway) is that the original vendor (JW Engineering)says that the connections are made on the front and the rear. I don't think they are twin however.
It does look like they are on the side so I am going to double check (I have asked for a picture) I'm tempted to let this one ride and see what it looks like when it gets here.
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Order placed with Pelican Parts in the US today, £100 shipped, it *should* be a drop in replacement.
If not, anyone know of anyone with an old 914 ? :D