Vibrations!
I have a problem with a vibration and a humming noise coming from below only after 80kmph and the faster I get it starts to get a little bit louder but the vibration stays the same. My wife or friends do not notice it, but as a mechanical engineer myself , I know it is there and is not a good sign. The high low gear stick is the only place you can feel the vibration. I have changed all the oils, front CV's and front prop shaft for new because of the UJ's were badly worn, and it made no difference. I drove it over a pit this weekend, put the transfer box into neutral and put the box into 5th and checked the gear box for vibration. Nothing wrong or no noises. Can anybody help?
Also, my steering damper was goosed so I ordered a new one from my friendly local MB agent here in Azerbaijan(2 weeks later) I got the wrong one. It was thicker but the close length and open length were the same. I checked on my parts CD and it also stated the one that the agent gave me. After a bit of modification to the bracket on the front diff where the damper fits to, I got it on. Has anybody else had the same situation?
Hello Martin & welcome, hope you're warm enough. I am NOT mechanically gifted but on 2 previous G's my steering damper was replaced with a "thicker" updated design so I think you're OK there.All my previous G's had a vibration thru the transfer stick and never proved to be a problem, would you describe your vibration as something you can "feel" or is it a drumming which you can "hear",rather more of a drone that goes loud and quieter as you hit 60mphish? is it like you would imagine Dr Who's tardis taking off? (not the same sound but the same off and on noise)more like a "waahh" "WAAHH" "waahh" "WAAHH" louder then quiter drone? sorry its difficult to describe a sound in words.
Hi, Excellent discription of the G vibe MAN! 8) Seriously it was well described as my 300 GD short w/base does the same. I get a slight " G vibe " ( think there is a song in this somewhere ) :lol: at 40 m.p.h. then the full chorus at around 60. Then it dissapears above 70'ish. I've had mine for four years and just learned to live with it. I too am a Mechanical Maintenance Engineer and things like that do bug me but I really just think it is the actual make up of the vehicle ( geometry etc. ) If you keep your cockpit clean and tidy there is not as much noise as there is nothing to vibrate. Anyway just thought I would give credit where it was due. You don't make noises for a living do you? Cheery for now Chazz.
Hello Martin & welcome, hope you're warm enough. I am NOT mechanically gifted but on 2 previous G's my steering damper was replaced with a "thicker" updated design so I think you're OK there.All my previous G's had a vibration thru the transfer stick and never proved to be a problem, would you describe your vibration as something you can "feel" or is it a drumming which you can "hear",rather more of a drone that goes loud and quieter as you hit 60mphish? is it like you would imagine Dr Who's tardis taking off? (not the same sound but the same off and on noise)more like a "waahh" "WAAHH" "waahh" "WAAHH" louder then quiter drone? sorry its difficult to describe a sound in words.
Martin:
Vibration and noises coming from the drivetrain of W460 GWagens are a big problem, particularly on SWBs and specially when they have been "body lifted". But a W463 in good nick should have no noticeable noise/vibration coming from this area whatsoever.
The main reason for MB/SDP engineers to redesign the drivetrain of the GWagen on ocassion of the launching of the 463 series G-Wagen was to get rid of the truck feel of the W460 (vibration + noises, even while the car was in perfect condition). Obviously they also decided to design the system as a permanent 4wd while doing it!
To pinpoint the cause of the problem and assuming that the front propshaft is in perfect condition, I would remove the rear one and go for a test drive with the central diff locked. If the noise and vibs dissapear you´ll know that it is the rear prop the cause of the problem. If not, it can be the central propshaft, but it could also be due to worn engine, gearbox or transferbox mountings or a numer of even rarer causes.
When it comes to the propshafts, the problem can not only be the worn UJs but also that the shaft is out of balance or the bearings conecting to the transferbox or the axles are worn out.
I even had a 460 with a bent rear halfshaft which was causing the problem! Also something as stupid as having the wheels out of balance or having mud trapped inside the rims can cause vibration in the drivetrain.
But again, don´t settle for having your 463 any less than perfect in terms of total lack of vibration!
Hi Guys,
Suffered big time today, drinking heavily last night. So, I thought the only thing to make me happy today with my hangover was to get out and under my G, So I did!!
I started by removing the back prop and checking all the gearbox/transfer mounts, the gearbox mounts looked OK but the transfer mounts didn't look too good, I could see splitts down the side of them. Order them tomorrow. The engine mounts, I replaced at the same time I did front prop and the cv's, they still look new. I then took it out for a drive(I'm sure I was still over the limit!!) and felt for the vibration and it was still there, and the hummm was there also. I am quite sure now that it is the gear box because, it only makes a noise when in 5th gear and above 80kmph(approx 50mph, I think). The vibration, well, it must be either the mounts(mmmh), or the bearings within the transfer box. OR, when I had the rear prop off, I swiveled the rear diff with my hand, and there seems to be a lot of play in there. Looking at the prop conection on the rear diff, it could almost be turned from the 12 oclock position to about 1.30 position freely without the wheels moving. Is this normal, why so much play?
What I have also realised is that I have a duff/ copy/ non MB air conditioning Unit!!(BLAH!!). I bought a new v-belt a while ago and tried to change it today and realised that old v-belt was not fitted corectly(in the correct sequence) and the one I had was, the correct one for my car but because of this duff unit I have got it requires a strange size V-belt. (AAARRRGGHH!! :evil: )
Anyway, I fixed nothing on the G, but today pottering about with it, sure made me feel better, hangover gone :D .
Martin:
I can now see that my hungovers are worse then yours.... I could barely stare yesterday, let alone make any sense of what I managed to see...
Does anybody know of a way of how to check if the back wheel bearings are gone? Maybe my vibrations and humming noise is coming from a wheel bearing. Today I replased my back shockers and brake shoes and after I replaced the wheel i kicked the back wheel while it was still off the ground and I could feel a bit of play.
What kind of a job is it to change the back wheel bearings?
Replacing the rear wheel bearings is as easy as on a rear wheel drive car. I have had both of mine done not for the bearing but for the seal which was shot and leaking oil on the brake.
Its a simple matter of pulling the drive shaft out of the diff(no difficulty there) and doing the bearing and seal (it comes as one unit)I don't think the brakes need be touched.
But I would be suprised if the bearing were worn. Jack it up and give it a better examination. The bearing/seal kit is £65 ea. in UK
Roly
if the waahhh waahhh is what you got then this is resinence (if thats how you spell it) I had the same sound on my 230, it was the engine mounts but its not common on a 463, if your TC mounts are split then I bet thats where your problem is. As the drive from front axle spins in the opposite way to the rear from TC, the mounts need to be good to prevent resinence.
My TC mounts are due any day now, I will wait till they are fitted before I dig deeper.
Thanks guys
I found this posting. http://www.mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=185812&posts=3
Could be a solution for your waahhh problem :D
For those of you with buzz noises coming through your transfer lever at certain speeds there is hope. I learned there is an update kit or parts group that makes the lever "uncoupled". I ordered the parts because I couldn't take it any more. They are;
Shift lever handle #460 284 07 40
Rubber grommet 460 284 14 97
Extension pin 460 284 11 74
Connecting piece 460 284 06 28
Nut 8M 10X1 (2each) 000 439 010216
Bolt M8X30 913004 008004
Nut M8 000933 008152
It takes about 10 minutes to install the new lever assembly and NO MORE NOISE! It works. Cost was under $100 US from Europa. It replaces the original lever with a two piece affair with a rubber insulating 'grommet' between the assembly. A very clever, strong and excellent fix. Cheers,
-Dai
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You did an excellent job of describing the sounds, you can feel it quite easily through the transfer stick, it really is(to me)quite a heavy vibration.
Any Ideas? Could it be another Prop? Transfer or Rear?
Many Thanks.