Various bits- blower, wiper spindle, fuel guage tinkering advice...

Is heater putting out hot water, is it plumbed in? Heater will never be like a new car but should clear windscreen ok, possibly is leaking through worn wiper spindle, enough has been written here on that job, I think 460 spindles available individually? Fuel tank, get access to flap, lift up carpet etc. Find fuel sender wire and ground it out ( earth it temporarly) fuel should read full when you do that, indicating sender faulty, if it doesn't possibly gauge on dash playing up or wiring issue. Is it a plastic fuel tank? Possibility sender can be repaired but it's tricky!

Who installed your engine, other than the above problems is it going ok?

Looks very nice, when you get a minute, please post some pics of the under bonnet? Not very often G owners say so much power!

 

Just to cover the very basics regarding low temperatures from your blower.

Firstly, make sure the engine is operating within the normal operating temperature. Thermostats failing are fairly common whereby they could have failed in an open position hence the engine temperature reads low and heater blower does not blow heat. The needle for the engine temperature gauge should sit at the upper part of the digit 8 of 80 degrees. The needle sitting as described actually reads some 90 to 95 degrees temperature. If a lower reading is achieved; replace the thermostat.

Secondly, there is a heater control valve by the off side heater matrix. This can get stuck internally in an open or shut position depending on how the valve has been set throughout the summer or winter. The rubber seal inside bonds with the internal sealing face over time. No matter which position the valve is set, open or closed, when ever the valve sits on its sealing face or bottoms out, bring the valve off the seat a little so it does not bond on. Otherwise put into practice some things that should be regularly worked on a G-Wagen to prevent them from become problematic. Work the valve On and Off several times a month and don't let it sit in one position all season long. 

Once the valve is worked free or replaced good heat should start flowing. 

Wiper spindle; depending upon the chassis cut off you may get individual spindle for replacement or it will be a case of the whole wiper link. The link and spindles are handed for a Left Hand or Right Hand drive vehicles. 

The fuel gauge could be a earthing issue where to sort that out you need to get to the cover plate under the carpeting in the rear luggage area. Difficulty could be removal of seized and round screws holding the kick plate across the width of the rear door. More so the fuel sender unit may need careful disassembly to internally clean and flush out the collected and trapped dirt and bacterial material out. BE very careful working here the fuel float is guided by a very thin length of wire easily broken and no ordinary channel for repair. Although it is repairable and the wire is actually is detonating wire. Put it another way, a person of my ethnicity would not want to be caught sourcing for detonating wire in todays' political clime.  

 

hi

 

is that a nifty little air filter you have there ?

I have the same set up ie 606 with modified 603 pump 6mm elements but with a larger KnN filter

the 606 makes these trucks a joy to drive in modern traffic

cheers

No done before I bought the truck by dieselmeken AB in Sweden the fuel gallery on mine is now said to be 90 cc but I don't have paperwork to this effect.

Truck goes/pulls very well ( I have the 6 speed manual g'box ) so I tend to short shift it up through the box as power band fairly brief. I've thought about having diff ratios changed but have decided better for towing with the standard diffs.

 

wiper spindles on stock sensor 0095420717 (would need your VIN) seal ring 0009975149 (would need your VIN) spare nut 4609905050 on stock GRAZ closed till 11th jan

OEM alloy wheels require radius-seat bolts, 45mm long, The ones you have shown appear to be connical. I found these lock-bolts to be very good, and which are used by Mercedes and others. eBay item 231137873011 Then TUV approved bolts, eBay item 230860150578 And caps for Audi, which fit well and have slim removal clips that fit in the wheel holes. The set also includes one cap for the wheel lock-bolts above. eBay items 252235116888 (enter eBay item number into the eBay search bar)

The spare wheel is usually secured by a padlock with a long shackle that goes through the support tube of the wheel carrier. It's pre-drilled for this. You can get these for little more than a fiver from B&Q etc. In any case, you need bolts for the 4 wheels and nuts for the spare wheel.

I see what you mean. Maybe you have a modified or non-standard wheel carrier. The wheel normally fits with its outer face facing the rear door, such that the tube protracted through further on the inside of the wheel where a pad-lock can secure it. The wheel carrier should have three studs to affix the wheel with three nuts. I'll try to find a picture.

Do the diffs, the difference is amazing, I have OM606 80cc pump , six speed box and 4.1 diffs. I can cruise at 85-90mph all day and I've seen 113MPH, 90 MPH is at 3200 RPM towing isn't affected Gordon