Valve Clearance Adjustment.
A previous owner/garage has managed to round one of the valve adjustment nuts on my G. I have managed to adjust all but this one clearance with a normal open ended spanner but I am now getting a little annoyed at the “tack, tacking†coming from the one I failed to adjust. I presume there is a special MB spanner to adjust these.
My question is, can the special spanner be bought from a MB dealer?
Has anyone else had this problem and how did you resolve it?
The nut is not completely knackered so there is a chance I will be able to move it given the right tool / technique.
Thanks,
Russ
Hi Russ
I,ve got the spanner in my garage . It is a 17mm (obviously) and has the ends set at different angles and fitts the tricky nuts easily.
Do you want to borrow it. Drop me an email privately and I'll post it to you. I used to own a 280 E
Roly
While on the subject what is the sequence of adjusting. IE with numbers ?? open, adjust ??
Thankyou
Greeny,
If you go to the US site clubgwagen.com there is an excellent section called GTech. loads of really useful stuff in there, including valve clearance adjustment (with pictures which helps!!) It's only for the 280 petrol though.
Russ
you will never lose the tappet noise on a 280. give it 2-3 weeks and it will be back, I've been there and was given the spanner and special socket to do the job. Better a lose tapet than a tight one.
Agreed Peter, but this one is way TOO big. Looks like it could be causing wear on the cam and even affecting the power (not easy to tell I know!)
Russ
Well even with the help of Roly’s MB spanner I failed miserably! The adjuster with the damaged nut would not budge. Tried filing out an imperial spanner (ever tried filing chrome vanadium?!) hammered it on to the nut and it still wouldn’t move even a fraction.
Ideas anyone?
Mine at the moment are:
Put up with the noise. Will this trash the cam?
Take it to an engine re-builder. EG. Admit defeat, eat humble pie and hand over wads of cash. NO
Take cam out to enable proper access to adjuster. Anyone know how big a job this is? I don’t have an engine manual yet. The offending adjuster is on the inlet side
Thanks,
Russ :cry:
call this number and speak to Nigel or his dad, what these guys do not know about Merc engines just aint worth knowing. Be prepared for a long phone call, they talk a lot, they have just done some work on my 280 and my friends 300GE, very pleased. They will adivse you on the most cost effective way of doing it.
There based near Boston in Lincs.
01205 270241
Cheers, I'll give them a try and let you know how I get on.
Merry Christmas
A 4lb hammer and cold chisel springs to mind!
Tried hammer and chisel. Any more abuse and I would have past the point of no return. EG. nut completely goosed and a non running engine.
Anyway temp. fix..............I've turned the radio up.
Russ
Russ, Have had a look at the clubgwagen site and note that these adjusters have a built in mechanism to resist movement so I take it that here lies your problem. Can you see or work out how this mechanism works? I would not recommend trying to force it until you know fully how this mechanism is supposed to work. Doesn't look like you've got a lot of room in there. Does this adjuster turn on a male thread or is it itself a male thread screwing into a female thread.
Not too sure if it's male or female but think it's male.
There is a spring clip that you remove before attempting to move it but maybe there is some other locking arrangement. They were all tight.
To close the gap you turn the nut anti clock. Did try turning it clockwise but it wouldn't budge that way either.
Will try the phone No Peter provided.
John,
What do you think, shall I try spraying it with that really dodgy oily stuff?!
Cheers,
Russ
There must be an automatic locking device if you didn't have to undo a locking nut.Very likely that this locking device has failed. Might sound really stupid but I'd try putting a bit of pressure on it with the cam follower ( tappit ) just starting to open the valve ( wrong position for adjusting I know ) but this might just take a bit pressure off this locking device, maybe just enough to get away from the problem area. That's if you can get in to it of course. Worth a try if you can be bothered. What about this new member MRBENZ, believe he was a technician and don't think this will be a one off problem.
Cheers Chazz,
Sounds possible, will give it a go when I have time.
Russ
Hi
your last reply was correct and this is not an unusuall problem and the answer would normaly be to replace the tappet first remove the cam cover the spark plugs, rocker spring on the offending tappet . then make sure the piston is down on the cylinder you are working on (inset a long thin screwdriver and turn the crank making sure the screwdriver remanes loose and is not angled or sticking untill you are confident the piston is at its lowest point) then there is a special tool for compressing the valve and removing the rocker arm with this out of the way you can get onto the tappet post with a socket pref a six sideded (you may have to knock it on if the sides are damaged but dont be shy just make sure it on good and tight) the tappet post are sometimes verry verry tight and you may need a lot of grunt and maybe a long cracking bar to undo it the parts are reasonaly cheap K.M.S can supply or i have second hand its all labour i am afraid torque set the tappet post and refit as it came apart reset tappets. A tip for reseting 110 tappets is a copper mallet when setting the tappets remove the spring strike the rocker firmley on top of the seat with the tappet post and check and adjust kep hitting it with every adjust ment and you to can have a quite 110 engine . The special tool mentioned for depressing the valve is only to remove & refit the rocker arm so i am sure you could make somthing up any proms cal me 07812484004 reards terry
Thanks Terry,
Will have another go at it.
Russ
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Cheers Roly, message sent.
Russ