Turbo touching steering column
I have just swapped turbo, manifold etc. from another 300GD of the same age on to my daily driver.
Everything is great, I just need to source an intercoole nowr.
My problem is that the actuator on the turbo barely touches the steering column and the vibration then resonates up thr column into the cabin.
When I turn the steering it disappears, so obviously the concentric rotation of the column is enough to clear the actuator.
There is only a millimeter in it!
I wondered if anyone had experienced this and found a solution or any suggestions or advice would be appreciated?
Thanks
Colin
colin , slacken the 4 bolts (m10) with a 15 mm socket head that hold the engine mounts to the mount cups (you get at them from underneath) then use a pry bar and shift the whole engine over towards the passenger side . the holes are slightly slotted and this may create the clearance you need.
your engine mount rubbers may well be deteriorated allowing the engine to sag downwards causing a clearance problem , try slackening the bolts that go through the middle of the engine mount rubbers (m10 with a 17mm hex)
once they are both slackened get a pry bar and try tipping the engine over towards the passenger side ,the mounts should move on their slots /once some movement has been achieved tighten the bolts up , these mounts are adjustable using these bolts enabling the engine to be levelled side to side .
these two actions should 'win' you some room. there are some other methods if this does not get you enough clearance.
you could alter the bracket for the w/g actuator to create the space.
shim the engine upwards on the turbo side of the engine by putting a steel spacer under the mount (you will have to replace the mount bolts with longer items.
i have recently had experience of an stt turbo install on a 617 powered 300gd and the inlet plenum was incredibly close to the brake master cylinder .
n.b. some g wagens (461's mostly) have a plastic framed spacer block between the steering box and the chassis to move the steering box away from the chassis by 10mm /8mm from memory ,this would also help move your steering shaft over away form the w/g actuator. however the first steps should do the trick/ please allow enough room for the engine to move with the torque reaction / have a good old lever of the engine to make sure the shaft cannot foul the actuator.
the construction of some turbo chargers allow the movement of the cold and hot sides by slackening the bolts that clamp them together and turning the housings. the kkk turbos have bolts and the garrett's have a large internal circlip / turbo's will have a variety of methods to enable the component parts to be orientated to fit all kinds of applications .
it could well be the case that moving some of your turbo housings will move the w/g actuator away from the steering shaft, if you do this please make sure the w/g setting is restored to the correct spec's as shortening or lengthening the push rod will change the w/g operation and the quantity of boost .
best to try the previous adjustments first.
[quote=Colin]
I have just swapped turbo, manifold etc. from another 300GD of the same age on to my daily driver.
Everything is great, I just need to source an intercoole nowr.
quote]
I GOT a intercooler from these guys
GFG do one thomas schiffzick (thomas@desert-service.com)
We make(manufacture) for you individual loading air coolers, as for example(such as) here, for Mercedes g with OM617A. After drawing or to measure in the vehicle(vessel). Appeal to us, we make an offer to you. Also water coolers in the aluminium or brass are possible. Delivery time 3 weeks!!!!!
Thanks Adrian, that's very interesting
Hi Axel & Rakesh
I tried moving the engine over a bit with the aid of a wooden baton and it worked a treat but I suspect that I will need to replace the engine mount because despite now having about a 1/4 of an inch of space, the actuator just touches the steering column on sharp bends or certain kinds of bumps in the road.
Can the mount be changed without removing the engine?
Thanks again for the advice, it was much appreciated.
Colin
colin , yes you can change the mounts insitu. do them one at a time ,undo the bottom bolts and the the nuts on top then gently lift the engine up until the mount drops off the 12 mm stud on top of the mount. then dismantle the mount bracket and insert the new mount assembly and then ref-fit ,once both mounts are fitted slacken the mount through bolts and center the engine level and re-tighten the bolts .
you can order new mounts from mercedes /i would suggest you specify the 'white grade' mount that is the hardest spec.
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Thanks Axel, that sounds like good advice, I will let you know how I get on but it probably won't be until next weekend.
Thanks again
Colin