Radiator removal (or repair) 460 Diesel
I am trying to remove rad from 460 LWB diesel.
How do I get at the mounting brackets at the bottom of the rad ?
What do I need ( or NOT need ) to dismantle or remove ?
Specifically can the oil cooler be left connected, does the fan cowling have to be removed ?
OR
As the leak is obvious and accesible can I solder the brass tube up like a plumbing joint,
Thanks
Robert
I have done this on my G
Yes the cowling has to be removed and the fan really, so you dont damage the core more than already there are 2 metalastic bushes holding the rad on the bottom cross member you have to remove skid pan too. They will probably break so you may have to saw them off you can get 2 identical bushes from the exhaust section from Halfords for about a pound. I can send you a photo if you wish.
I managed to solder by own top tank in an emegency one day but as you have to heat the metal with torch you run the risk of loosing more solder from further round the tank.
I had my whole Rad resoldered, recored completely and even painted like new for £130
I am in Kent though the company in Canterbury. You may find one in Yorkshire..
I had the rad on my lwb re-built by Serk-Marston for £120-something quid. They first asked me for near £160 but when I said that I thought the price a tad steep the guy asked me if I was a business or private. I told him I was a sole-trader and he immediately dropped the price by around 40 squid without asking for confirmation of the fact.
When I was getting the rad out I could not shift the sump guard bolts, and did not have a hot spanner to assist me, so forgot about trying to remove it and sawed through the rad bottom mountings with a wet knife from the front of the car (grille removed) and released the rad.
I then (with space to work) got rid of the rest of the mountings.
When I replaced the rad I simply placed the new mountings in their holes and plonked the
rad on top of them. I did not bother with nuts top and bottom of the mountings as they cannot escape anywhere and it will make removing the rad at a future date an easy task.
The other problem with radiator removal is that it is hellish difficult to remove the cowling.
When I replaced the rad I cut the cowling in two, horizontally, about a third of the way down from the top. It is now incredibly simple to remove or replace, yet the important part of it is still in place. (Important, as it acts as a fan guard) I have not noticed any appreciable rise in engine temperature as a result of my hacking 2/3 of it away.
ON WWW.ebay.co.uk £150.00
Removing the front grill , grill bottom plate and slam panel make rad removal a lot simpler.
Bill Moss
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Thanks for all the advise, have now removed , had repaired and replaced rad.
Removal was long winded mainly cos it was a first time, most difficult was removong cowling screws especially one on lower drivers side by steering pump.
Sump guard came off okay, rear support had to be removed at bracket level.
Surprised at how well all the bolts undid once I got them moving.
Rubber mounts at bottom of rad came off okay.
Rebuilt by Allied Radiators in Middlesbrough for £92 + VAT, interesting his supplier's catalogue had entries for G wagens.
Reinstalling much easier, tho not happy with jubilee clip access on bottom hose - cant remember how it was originally orientated ?
Just have to buy new nylock nuts and two rubber mounts for grill and some antifreeze.
Main problem in testing it is getting it hot enough to check viscous fan.
Robert