Help! Roof Drip moulding

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jaymanek
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Hi All,

1999 Mercedes G500.

Just had a call from bodyshop. They are installing the roof drip mouldings (Black ones around edge - brand new ones).

The old ones were stuck hard and got destroyed when removing.

He says when fitting, they are too loose. If we use adhesive tape (listed on parts catalogue) then the drip moulding cannot be fitted.

Does anyone know how these are to be fitted?

Thanks

Jay

Arnie
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding

I've not ever had the need to remove any, but from looking at them, I think they are fitted with a mastic sealant, not tape. On mine (1996) there is a black semi-soft sticky sealant visible between the rails and the bodywork, when viewed from the roof.  As far as I know they are still as from the factory, However, production and assembly techniques may change over time.

Why do you say they don't fit with adhesive tape? There are many kinds and thicknesses of double-sided tape and 3M do a very good one which is quite compliant. There are also some crimped clamps which join the rear and side sections..

 

 

jaymanek
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding

The tape is quite thick but using that, it is impossible to push the trim on?

 

Tea clipper
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding

I took mine off recently to clean them out - they are made from some type of malleable aluminium and will bend beyond out of shape if you're not careful. Remove the 3 spring clips 1 at the rear door and 2 either side of the rear quarter. The 2 rear pieces can be easily removed but have to be eased upwards - there was no tape of any sort on mine and they simply attach to the body roof lip by being a good fit, ( I think they must self clamp on). They fit nice and tight, it's just a case of fitting 3 new spring clips ( I bought 3 new ones at £14 for the set). The only water drain off the roof is at the 2 front windscreen pillars - these do get blocked by detritus, leaves etc. I used a long slender piece of flexible twig to clear out the drain, with a hose pipe trickling to flush it through until it runs clear. 2007 model LWB. TC

Howard Green
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding

 

I had the same problem when  fitting  my gutter trims and discovered they need to be crimped. If you look at the back of the new trim the back section is angled away from the back of the rain channel. I used a pair of plumbers adjustable grips and gaffer taped a a 40mm section of plastic bar onto each jaw. I then lay a cloth over the gutter to prevent scratching. Slowly working my way along the channel crimping as I go. It worked a treat. I noticed the adhesive tape on the parts catalogue, but I didnt both using it as there was no evidence of tape on the old drip mouldings.

Hope this helps

 

 

Howard Green
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding
markhowes
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding

I used a long slender piece of flexible twig to clear out the drain

You were lucky!. I tried this on another MB and the "flexible twig" broke off in the drain and I couldn't grab either end to remove. It also wouldn't flush out. That meant quite a big job.

Don't use a "twig". For me, a long piece of heavy duty strimmer line worked a treat - it's very flexible and very strong.

Tea clipper
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding
I guess I was lucky. This blockage is common on the G and ensuring it is clear does go some way to keeping the notorious windscreen area well ventilated and dry. I would also go so far to say that the more detritus that can be frequently cleared from the hidden nooks and crannies will also help in the long term. On an aside and I kid you not, I had a neighbour with a soft top Porsche Boxster - 2 years old - never saw him wash it once. With the green moss growing on his roof, I offered to lend him my strimmer, he never spoke to me again :-)
jaymanek
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Re: Help! Roof Drip moulding

Thanks for all the help. I passed Howards method on and job now done.

Car hopefully ready tomorrow so pics will be up on my other thread!