HELP HELP 280GE Auto

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kman
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HELP HELP. I am not an expert but would appreciate your valuable advice...

I just finished renovating my 280GE auto 6 cyclinder GWagon and now onto the engine. I replaced the Fuel Distirbutor/air flow, injectors, fuel/oil filters and it is running strong BUT too strong..

There is no power while i drive it. No take off power at all. I am about to check the Vacuum pipe and kick down switch BUT i hope i am not damaging the G while driving it.

It whines as i take off in first gear and then about 2nd gear whining stops. There is no acceleration nor does it go above 40 without shaking...slowwwww

Do i have the gears setting wrong (S, SA etc). My lever is back and to the left looking at the front of car AND what is the two "turn knobs" for on panel next to gear shift...

i know may come across sutpid but i really like this car and want it to run it's best...thx guys..t

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Guys it may help that my 280GE was sitting in a garden for 3 years gathering dust and it's taken 6 months to get it to the condition it is now..thx guys

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Ah ha ! I'm no epert myself but have a little bit of experience owning the mighty 280GE auto.

Diagnosis = "G"Bola !!!

Don't panic buddy. despit common misconception that these syptoms are terminal i know that they in fact are not ! all ya need a bit of time to mop her brow and a few quid for the medicine.

There are some very very clever gents on here whom will see you right but for starters check your throttle linkage ?

Also here is the story of "Neil's little truck and the distinct lack of power" :- http://www.gwoa.co.uk/content/w460-280ge-petrol-auto-performance-figures-0

I am pleased to report that after much help from GWOA members my little truck has kicked the arse of GBola and is beginning a cosmetic journey soon. (NO not a nasty chinese kit. just some tasteful light grilles, wheel refurb, new boots, rear window tint, etc)

Good luck and may the force be with you !!!

Neil.

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Neil thx man...

Since i picked it up from a field it's been everyone telling me to get rid of it...i got rid of the rats and redone the wiring. Redone the body completely and now onto the engine.

It does feel great to drive and put the naysayers to bed but hope i'm not damaging it further..

Neil i live on an island and there is no hills and don't need 4WD. What is the best setting to have it in and have i got it in the best setting. It looks looks like it is in "S" (lever back and to left) but are the two knobs (diffs) set right and how do i know they are??? Should they be on or off?? So many unqualified hands on my baby to start and afraid they set her wrong. Tyring to figure it out..

Thx for positive feedback Neil always good to hear after 6 months of getting to this stage..not giving up..thx man Tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Neil great thread and what a journey...i am just starting but your link to this thread is eye opening and very helpful..thx for the welcome..onwards upwards..tony

ChrisG
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto
OK here we go. On the lever, S = Street which is high ratio Rear Wheel Drive only. Leave it there all the time you are on tarmac. If you go onto slippy surface and want high ratio 4 wheel drive - push the lever forward. If you then want low ratio 4 wheel drive move the lever from the forward position to the right and pull it back. The two knobs are for your front and rear axle difflocks. You don't turn them you pull them firmly upwards to engage and push downwards again to disengage. Normal setting is pushed down. Only engage when you're getting stuck and watch out - you'll have v limited steering with the front difflock engaged. Red lights will come on as each difflocks engages. Remember only move from Street setting when you are on a surface where wheels can spin easily or you'll wreck the transmission. Hope this helps!
neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Tony,

Chris is spot on. Keep in 2 wheel drive and keep diff lock levers down.

http://www.4x4abc.com/jeep101/engage.html

My quest to nurse my little truck back to health is an ongoing one (life issues and finances are slowing me down) so no doubt we will meet agin soon to discuss the next method of moving forward !

Keep on trucking buddy yes

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Chris thx man very helpful. i will make sure to follow all instruction...really coming to grips with this. Do you by any chance have diagram of a Throttle Linkage? I boughts parts and after reading Neils thread above i further investigated my throttle linkage was a mess (parts missing/taped) and someone had done a number on it previously..

Thx man really appreciated Tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Thx again Neil very helpful...not giving up on this baby...thx man tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Here's a part i can't put my finger on. it connects from the vacuum pipe leading from the side of the engine to the housing of the brake booster...if i knew name/# i could order..looks like a valve of sorts...mine is taped up...ahhhh :)

 

Thx guys. Tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Hi Guys would anyone happen to have a diagram of the correct throttle assembly by chance?

I have ordered new bushings/throttle linkage/shackle bushings but the state of my existing throttle assembly  is a mess...

I've also been told that the "shackle bushing" piece i have to cut away the ends of the plastic to fit???

any help is much appreciated as always guys..cheers tony

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Tony,

You will find a diagram within the members area :-

Repair Manuals.

KA Injection engine 110.

Group 07

Page 2

No you should not cut anything from the white plastic component (this is item 929 called "strap" within the manual)

Good luck

Neil.

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Thx Neil as always. Having difficulty finding it ?? (yep i'm coming across as a complete newbie to this forum)..thx again Neil. Tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Gotta Neil became a full member well worth it...thx man tony

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Hi Tony,

It is money well spend buddy ! Access to these vital resources when nursing your little truck will prove to be invaluable !

welcome !

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Thx Neil. Whining...not me but my truck it has been since i got it..This is why one of my questions was had i got it in the right gear (S) which i do.

When it whines if feels like it is been held back. It happens when i first take off, then into 2nd gear and as soon as i reach 3 rd it stops. When i take my foot of accelerator in 2nd gear it still whines which says to me it is not been caused by my acceleration it drives whining without pedal...

When i slow down as soon as it shifts down to 2nd gear it whines...

In reverse it whines the same noise..

Is this normal or am i missing anything...it just feels my little fella is trying to let lose...and yes it sounds like i'm whining :) thx T

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Does the whining happen while the engine is running but the truck is stationary ? or only when it is in motion ?

If in motion then probably not engine whine and possibly belt or drive train ? This might be tricky to diagnose and you'll need play "Truck whisperer" for a while carrying out a process of elimination.

If heard only when put into gear it might even be transmission ?

Sadly i am not at all mechanically gifted or clever so let's hope for a better man to jump in here whom may offer a clearer diagnosis.

 

Pistonhead
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Hello kman,

There is some basic and key information missing that will help me to help you with your problem.

Firstly, please indicate what sort of mileage the vehicle has done,

Secondly, I am hoping and assuming the gear box oil level is correct? And What colour is the gear box fluid? When you check the oil level look at the oil at the end of the dip stick, this should be a clear red and smell the oil odor. The smell should not have any friction material smell such as brake dust or clutch dust and if that is the case additionally should not have any black partials suspended in the oil drop. Report back.

Thirdly, Re: the whining noise, is this from the gear box or rear axle?

To re-iterate what one member above mentioned I think 'chrisG or Gchris' the transfer box settings:

S = 'Strasse' (two wheel mode) or in English street use.

SA = 'Strasse-Alle' (All wheel or four drive mode) use for slippery conditions off the road use, in four wheel drive.

Normal position for the transfer box lever is left-rear. 

With the lever being the left channel is being in High ratio gearing.

The transfer box gear selection is arranged in the order of road terrain difficulty, in other words whilst in street use you will be in two wheel drive mode (S). Coming across slippery road, snow or sand, it is expected as conditions demand to select four wheel drive, i.e. moving the transfer box lever forward into SA. These selections should be made at walking pace or in some cases stopping for appropriate selection and, or selecting neutral gear. This applies to selecting low ratio as well.

Should you find the terrain becoming more arduous where traction is being lost, one would consider selecting low ratio gearing. 

Low ratio is selected by positioning the transfer box lever sliding lever to the right side channel and then pull  back all the way. You will notice that there is a stop before you can select backward to low ratio gear, this is marked 'N' which is neutral. Now even if the main gear box is in gear and when selecting 'N' on the transfer box, there is No drive at the axle(s). This facility is for when using PTO's (power take offs) ancillary equipment such as water pumps, generators etc.

If the vehicle experiences loss of traction under these conditions and the terrain is boggy then select rear axle diff lock. The diff. lock levers are the two knobs one in front of the other just ahead and left of the transfer box lever. The front knob operates the front axle lock diff and the rear knob operates the rear axle lock diff. The lock diffs are to be use as and when required and to deselect when not needed or the difficult terrain has been over come. Although in the W460 models there is no predetermined sequence of use of the axle lock diffs, one is free to either se front or rear lock diff at there choice or preference but ideally, these should be in sequence of utilising the selection of rear axle lock diff firstly and then the front axle lock diff. Having front and rear lock diff limits the vehicle in largely a straight a head position. The steering wheel becomes noticeable heavy and resistance to turning it increases. This is due to a condition known as transmission wind up. Prolonged such use can cause serious damage to some component of drive gear. Be wary of this condition! 

To come out of trouble in these conditions disengage the front lock, if this does not disengage, you may have to drive in reverse the same path driven forwards to unwind any transmission windup. 

When selecting the axle diff locks, an amber light on the instrument panel lights up with an icon of the front and rear tyres and joined up by line drawing showing the drive train connection. There are two lights, one lighting up the front axle and the second to show engagement of the rear axle. I cannot remember if these are arranged up and down or side by side. Any way, the amber light indicates that an axle diff lock has been selected, when the diff lock has been been physically engaged then the light will turn red.

Now back to the noise and lack of power and, or speed.

My first prognosis would be having the information at hand is that the torque convertors Sprague wheel is seized this wheel has a one directional motion which is fitted in the torque convertor to aid the torque multiplication effect of the torque convertor and secondly give the gearbox ability to engine brake.

The whining noise if it is emanating from the gearbox is a sun gear excessively worn. This in its self should not give loss of torque hence speed. 

RE: Vibration could be linked to the gear box or it could be a UJ going or gone at any one of the prop. shafts; these will need checking and should be frequently greased. It is common for the front prop. shaft's front UJ excessively being worn. Holding both the prop. shaft at either end of the UJ twist the shaft forward and backward in opposing direction will usually show up any play in the UJ. Better still remove one side of the UJ flange and rotate the uj in all its directions will also show up any dry and high spots if there is no play. You should get a free but firm and consistent resistance to turn in any angle.

 

 

 

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Neil & Pistonhead thank you. Very explanatory and will read thru a few times..

The whining doesn't happen when stationary. It only happens when driving forwards or backwards. Whining starts when i first take off and when i go over around 20mph on speedometer it stops? When i start to slow down and hit below 20mph it starts whining again?

The whining noise comes from the front and it does feel the truck is been held back and it wants to let loose but it can't..

The mileage is 99,850.

Background it was sitting for 3 years in a back garden before i bought it to fix up. I put a battery in it before i bought it and it started straight up and then had it lifted to garage for body electrical work. Living on a small island it's very difficult to find genuine mechanics and especially ones that have worked on this type of vehicle. I have gone through 4 mechanics and i'm afraid they may have done more damage..not sure. This last mechanic i was lucky to find as he has maintained another GWagon 1986 for another owner on island. He is very good/trustworthy. It has been very frustrating this is why it's been great to find this blog/website..

I have ATTACHED a picture of positon of gear lever and diff locks. I'm just afraid with all different mechanics these may not bee right. It is a flat island so 4WD is not much good here. Is my best position to be driving it in "S" and disengage Diff Locks always? How do i know when Diff Locks are disengaged (afraid light on dash may not be working). Do they look like it in picture attached???

I will read thru your great wording above Pistonhead i really appreciate this and i will print off and give to my mechanic..Any help with above would be great. Sincerely guys thx as always..Picture ATTACHED. Tony

 

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

AND after writing above i went and drove and whispered :)

it seems to make whining noise for first 2 gears and then when 3rd gear kicks in it stops. It's not able to reach 4th gear and sticks in 3rd ?? When in 2nd gear and whining if i take my foot off accelerator pedal and coast the whining stops but when i reapply the accelerator pedal whining starts again.

When i am in 3rd gear and slow down without foot on accelerator (let truck naturally slow down) it kickdowns to 2nd gear and whining starts again.

Hope this helps guys.....thx again tony

ChrisG
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Just one amendment to Pistonheads instructions for the difflocks. On the 460 there is no amber light. When you pull up a lever to engage a difflock you will get a red light when the difflock engages, and only when it engages. The red light will go out once you disengage the difflock. Note that a difflock may not engage straightaway, it will engage when one wheel on that axle spins faster than the other. Frankly, I would suggest you just leave the transfer box lever in left rear, 'S', and leave the difflock levers pressed down. That will give you two wheel drive (rear only) and no difflocks engaged. This is the safest option and the only option for driving on tarmac. Once you are much more familiar with the truck and have read-up on use of difflocks / four-wheel drive then give it a go but it is possible to make expensive and even dangerous mistakes if you use four wheel drive and difflocks without knowing all the implications.

Not sure what your whining is but it doesnt sound good. Sounds like a bearing in something is wearing out. Could be diff, transfer box or gearbox. Suggest you find a local transmission specialist if you can. Otherwise you may have to wait until it gets worse and is easier to identify I'm afraid.

Good luck! And a number of things improve once you have a fully working throttle linkage!

Chris

 

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Thx Chris. Very much appreciated. I will leave in "S" and double check Diff Locks till i get more confident and of course figure out the other issues with this truck...Thx. Tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Throttle Linkage Image ISSUE.

Hi guys thx for the reference of the repair manual to double check the throttle linkage setup.

I am having issues matching it to mine of figuring it out as i have bought new parts for this. IMAGES ATTACHED.

1. MY Throttle IMAGE attached is how my throttle is currently and it looks a mess. I feel the solid spring is in the wrong location and should be on the bottom arm of the throttle below (in red). I also think i may be missing a pin for the bottom arm below in IMAGE as i have a pin for top arm??

2. I am getting this from an image i found on GWOA of a throttle linkage set up "GWOA IMAGE" below. Would i be correct above to set up linkage as in this GWOA IMAGE below ??? of course i have new plastic strap and parts ready.

3. IMAGE below is of Bigger Image of MY throttle linkage...

Thx guys your help is always appreciated...tony

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Tony,

You need 2 of the folded metal spring pieces (top and bottom) Yes you need a split pin to the bottom. You require the white plastic bushing in centre.

You will need also check the rear part of rod as it sits within a housing at the back of engine bay mounted to bulkhead. It has a circular rubber gromet and a ball part within the centre. the rod will locate within that ball part and this will offer movement but rigidity to the entire assembly. (having been standing i bet a pound to a pinch of shit it'll be perished and the rod will just fall through the back completely unsupported ?)

I have attached photo's of mine after having done all of these things.

Hope it all helps to make her well.

Neil.

 

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

neilmarton wrote:

Tony,

You need 2 of the folded metal spring pieces (top and bottom) Yes you need a split pin to the bottom. You require the white plastic bushing in centre.

You will need also check the rear part of rod as it sits within a housing at the back of engine bay mounted to bulkhead. It has a circular rubber gromet and a ball part within the centre. the rod will locate within that ball part and this will offer movement but rigidity to the entire assembly. (having been standing i bet a pound to a pinch of shit it'll be perished and the rod will just fall through the back completely unsupported ?)

I have attached photo's of mine after having done all of these things.

Hope it all helps to make her well.

Neil.

 

May I ask why, whenever a photo is uploaded this site decides to rotate it ?

Cheers,

Neil.

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Neil thank you so much. I had purchased the plastic bushing/bushings and the rear part of the rod to make sure sure all was new.

Neil your pictures above are very very very helpful and shows my throttle is a mess...

Actually i spent last night going through "german blogs" and using a online translator after finding a picture similar to yours showing the two folded metal pieces on each end :(...Neil any idea what these folded metal pieces are called or part # OR can i simply purchase them at any autoparts store??

Neil thx you for efforts of pictures...very appreciative..

Drove my little truck this morning and went for a coffee before turmoils of work only to find her dead not starting when i came out...another cup of coffee and get my mechanic over on the road..

Onwards upwards buddy thx again tony..owe ya a coldie one day t

neilmarton
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Tony,

You owe me nuffin buddy ! It's a pleasure.

The spring retainer clips are = A123 301 01 40

(don't ask me why she won't start ! Thankfully i've never experienced that !)

Yes Pal most definately always, onwards and upwards yes

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Thx Neil..and for part#...

YEP battery was weak although only 5 months old. Jump started and continued to be weak (tested running) so checking alternator and hopefully only bushings needed inside..the heat/salt air gets to things here..

Thx man. Tony

kman
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Re: HELP HELP 280GE Auto

Hi guys. Anyone any idea what the correct part numbers are for the fan belts. Looks like i have 3 on there and they are cheap fan belts placed on there by the previous owner..Can't order correct one as parts companies need numbers? 1988 280GE GWagon 2.7L

Any help is much appreciated as always guys..thx Tony