HELP HELP 280GE Auto
HELP HELP. I am not an expert but would appreciate your valuable advice...
I just finished renovating my 280GE auto 6 cyclinder GWagon and now onto the engine. I replaced the Fuel Distirbutor/air flow, injectors, fuel/oil filters and it is running strong BUT too strong..
There is no power while i drive it. No take off power at all. I am about to check the Vacuum pipe and kick down switch BUT i hope i am not damaging the G while driving it.
It whines as i take off in first gear and then about 2nd gear whining stops. There is no acceleration nor does it go above 40 without shaking...slowwwww
Do i have the gears setting wrong (S, SA etc). My lever is back and to the left looking at the front of car AND what is the two "turn knobs" for on panel next to gear shift...
i know may come across sutpid but i really like this car and want it to run it's best...thx guys..t
Ah ha ! I'm no epert myself but have a little bit of experience owning the mighty 280GE auto.
Diagnosis = "G"Bola !!!
Don't panic buddy. despit common misconception that these syptoms are terminal i know that they in fact are not ! all ya need a bit of time to mop her brow and a few quid for the medicine.
There are some very very clever gents on here whom will see you right but for starters check your throttle linkage ?
Also here is the story of "Neil's little truck and the distinct lack of power" :- http://www.gwoa.co.uk/content/w460-280ge-petrol-auto-performance-figures-0
I am pleased to report that after much help from GWOA members my little truck has kicked the arse of GBola and is beginning a cosmetic journey soon. (NO not a nasty chinese kit. just some tasteful light grilles, wheel refurb, new boots, rear window tint, etc)
Good luck and may the force be with you !!!
Neil.
Tony,
Chris is spot on. Keep in 2 wheel drive and keep diff lock levers down.
http://www.4x4abc.com/jeep101/engage.html
My quest to nurse my little truck back to health is an ongoing one (life issues and finances are slowing me down) so no doubt we will meet agin soon to discuss the next method of moving forward !
Keep on trucking buddy
Tony,
You will find a diagram within the members area :-
Repair Manuals.
KA Injection engine 110.
Group 07
Page 2
No you should not cut anything from the white plastic component (this is item 929 called "strap" within the manual)
Good luck
Neil.
Hi Tony,
It is money well spend buddy ! Access to these vital resources when nursing your little truck will prove to be invaluable !
welcome !
Does the whining happen while the engine is running but the truck is stationary ? or only when it is in motion ?
If in motion then probably not engine whine and possibly belt or drive train ? This might be tricky to diagnose and you'll need play "Truck whisperer" for a while carrying out a process of elimination.
If heard only when put into gear it might even be transmission ?
Sadly i am not at all mechanically gifted or clever so let's hope for a better man to jump in here whom may offer a clearer diagnosis.
Hello kman,
There is some basic and key information missing that will help me to help you with your problem.
Firstly, please indicate what sort of mileage the vehicle has done,
Secondly, I am hoping and assuming the gear box oil level is correct? And What colour is the gear box fluid? When you check the oil level look at the oil at the end of the dip stick, this should be a clear red and smell the oil odor. The smell should not have any friction material smell such as brake dust or clutch dust and if that is the case additionally should not have any black partials suspended in the oil drop. Report back.
Thirdly, Re: the whining noise, is this from the gear box or rear axle?
To re-iterate what one member above mentioned I think 'chrisG or Gchris' the transfer box settings:
S = 'Strasse' (two wheel mode) or in English street use.
SA = 'Strasse-Alle' (All wheel or four drive mode) use for slippery conditions off the road use, in four wheel drive.
Normal position for the transfer box lever is left-rear.
With the lever being the left channel is being in High ratio gearing.
The transfer box gear selection is arranged in the order of road terrain difficulty, in other words whilst in street use you will be in two wheel drive mode (S). Coming across slippery road, snow or sand, it is expected as conditions demand to select four wheel drive, i.e. moving the transfer box lever forward into SA. These selections should be made at walking pace or in some cases stopping for appropriate selection and, or selecting neutral gear. This applies to selecting low ratio as well.
Should you find the terrain becoming more arduous where traction is being lost, one would consider selecting low ratio gearing.
Low ratio is selected by positioning the transfer box lever sliding lever to the right side channel and then pull back all the way. You will notice that there is a stop before you can select backward to low ratio gear, this is marked 'N' which is neutral. Now even if the main gear box is in gear and when selecting 'N' on the transfer box, there is No drive at the axle(s). This facility is for when using PTO's (power take offs) ancillary equipment such as water pumps, generators etc.
If the vehicle experiences loss of traction under these conditions and the terrain is boggy then select rear axle diff lock. The diff. lock levers are the two knobs one in front of the other just ahead and left of the transfer box lever. The front knob operates the front axle lock diff and the rear knob operates the rear axle lock diff. The lock diffs are to be use as and when required and to deselect when not needed or the difficult terrain has been over come. Although in the W460 models there is no predetermined sequence of use of the axle lock diffs, one is free to either se front or rear lock diff at there choice or preference but ideally, these should be in sequence of utilising the selection of rear axle lock diff firstly and then the front axle lock diff. Having front and rear lock diff limits the vehicle in largely a straight a head position. The steering wheel becomes noticeable heavy and resistance to turning it increases. This is due to a condition known as transmission wind up. Prolonged such use can cause serious damage to some component of drive gear. Be wary of this condition!
To come out of trouble in these conditions disengage the front lock, if this does not disengage, you may have to drive in reverse the same path driven forwards to unwind any transmission windup.
When selecting the axle diff locks, an amber light on the instrument panel lights up with an icon of the front and rear tyres and joined up by line drawing showing the drive train connection. There are two lights, one lighting up the front axle and the second to show engagement of the rear axle. I cannot remember if these are arranged up and down or side by side. Any way, the amber light indicates that an axle diff lock has been selected, when the diff lock has been been physically engaged then the light will turn red.
Now back to the noise and lack of power and, or speed.
My first prognosis would be having the information at hand is that the torque convertors Sprague wheel is seized this wheel has a one directional motion which is fitted in the torque convertor to aid the torque multiplication effect of the torque convertor and secondly give the gearbox ability to engine brake.
The whining noise if it is emanating from the gearbox is a sun gear excessively worn. This in its self should not give loss of torque hence speed.
RE: Vibration could be linked to the gear box or it could be a UJ going or gone at any one of the prop. shafts; these will need checking and should be frequently greased. It is common for the front prop. shaft's front UJ excessively being worn. Holding both the prop. shaft at either end of the UJ twist the shaft forward and backward in opposing direction will usually show up any play in the UJ. Better still remove one side of the UJ flange and rotate the uj in all its directions will also show up any dry and high spots if there is no play. You should get a free but firm and consistent resistance to turn in any angle.
Just one amendment to Pistonheads instructions for the difflocks. On the 460 there is no amber light. When you pull up a lever to engage a difflock you will get a red light when the difflock engages, and only when it engages. The red light will go out once you disengage the difflock. Note that a difflock may not engage straightaway, it will engage when one wheel on that axle spins faster than the other. Frankly, I would suggest you just leave the transfer box lever in left rear, 'S', and leave the difflock levers pressed down. That will give you two wheel drive (rear only) and no difflocks engaged. This is the safest option and the only option for driving on tarmac. Once you are much more familiar with the truck and have read-up on use of difflocks / four-wheel drive then give it a go but it is possible to make expensive and even dangerous mistakes if you use four wheel drive and difflocks without knowing all the implications.
Not sure what your whining is but it doesnt sound good. Sounds like a bearing in something is wearing out. Could be diff, transfer box or gearbox. Suggest you find a local transmission specialist if you can. Otherwise you may have to wait until it gets worse and is easier to identify I'm afraid.
Good luck! And a number of things improve once you have a fully working throttle linkage!
Chris
Tony,
You need 2 of the folded metal spring pieces (top and bottom) Yes you need a split pin to the bottom. You require the white plastic bushing in centre.
You will need also check the rear part of rod as it sits within a housing at the back of engine bay mounted to bulkhead. It has a circular rubber gromet and a ball part within the centre. the rod will locate within that ball part and this will offer movement but rigidity to the entire assembly. (having been standing i bet a pound to a pinch of shit it'll be perished and the rod will just fall through the back completely unsupported ?)
I have attached photo's of mine after having done all of these things.
Hope it all helps to make her well.
Neil.
Tony,
You need 2 of the folded metal spring pieces (top and bottom) Yes you need a split pin to the bottom. You require the white plastic bushing in centre.
You will need also check the rear part of rod as it sits within a housing at the back of engine bay mounted to bulkhead. It has a circular rubber gromet and a ball part within the centre. the rod will locate within that ball part and this will offer movement but rigidity to the entire assembly. (having been standing i bet a pound to a pinch of shit it'll be perished and the rod will just fall through the back completely unsupported ?)
I have attached photo's of mine after having done all of these things.
Hope it all helps to make her well.
Neil.
May I ask why, whenever a photo is uploaded this site decides to rotate it ?
Cheers,
Neil.
Tony,
You owe me nuffin buddy ! It's a pleasure.
The spring retainer clips are = A123 301 01 40
(don't ask me why she won't start ! Thankfully i've never experienced that !)
Yes Pal most definately always, onwards and upwards
Guys it may help that my 280GE was sitting in a garden for 3 years gathering dust and it's taken 6 months to get it to the condition it is now..thx guys