Grease points

Wouldn't it be best if one of our Southern based members ( hint)gave you a tutorial on greasing a G? I would do it but 200 miles a bit too far. You will also ( ideally) need a good jack,in the meantime just look at the prop shafts,at each end,you should be able to see the grease nipple poking out as you turn wheel if car jacked up,also 1 grease nipple on the slider,nearer the transfer box end. Those are the easy ones to see,you also have the short prop between gearbox and transfer box Any tractor shop,agricultural place will sell you a grease gun and a cartridge of universal grease for the gun,I expect less than £15 for both?

Yours was done not so long ago Sir ... :-)

check the grease in your front swivels too

By shiny bits I presume you mean the swivels not brake discs,? Certainly not brake cleaner,would leave alone cleaning wise,you should see the filler plug as said it us a 14mm hexagon head,fill with grease( clean around plug before undoing) no grease nipple here,be surprised if it takes much?

Hi it doesn't come back out the grease nipple, it can't, there's a spring loaded one way ball valve in a grease nipple, it's the excess grease that gets squeezed out of the bearings that gets splattered around. I recently had a new factory propshaft that had greasing points to be used with a needle point gun, and I have seen them capped as well, I suppose that's more just to reduce the likely hood of the nipple being damaged.

 

 

Yes, but with centrifugal force from the spinning prop shaft, I think some does get back out.

Post No: 6 contributed by 'JASONGDS' summarizes the topic well. 

There are indeed 3 grease points per prop. shaft and they are three prop. shafts to be greased. One grease point will be found at either end of the prop. shaft on the UJ and one will be found on the slide joint noticeable by a thinner tube fitting into the larger. 

The grease points are of a conical face requiring; as pointed out by one thread above, a needle point grease end on the grease gun. I found it easier to convert these to the agricultural type, conventional grease point. The grease point fitted at the UJ ends are a different size to the one fitted on the slide joint. 

I do not remember the sizes of these any longer nor do I have the thread pitch sizes. You will nee to remove the ones fitted to your shaft and get a supplier to size and supply you with the conventional grease points.

The only other greasing to be done is filling the front swivel housings which in the latter models have a 14 mm allen head bung usually fitted to the rear of the hub as one looks rearwards from the front of the vehicle. The earlier models may have a hexagonal head to the bung. The front wheels  have to be removed for this operation. Please. always use axle stands to support your vehicle when ever jacking up to do any repairs or maintenance work.

Do make sure no one will be playing with the steering wheel whilst greasing the swivel hubs as this will need to be done at a full lock. The danger is, should you have a finger in the hub to check for grease and one turns the steering wheel whilst checking, you ain't going to have a finger left!

Use the flexible extension to feed into the bottom of the swivel housing and pump away. Fill until the grease reaches the bung level. From an empty chamber it can take up to two hundred strokes to fill the swivel chamber. The swivel housings should be checked and replenished every two years.

The prop. shafts, however, should be greased annually or more frequently, especially if 'Fording' or more so, wet off-roading. Fording can suck out grease as, when running the vehicle, grease heats up and becomes more liquid, going through a cold medium just sucks out the grease. Grease the prop. shaft end until grease just begins to ooze out of the seals or the joints and for the slide joint 5 strokes has be suggested by the workshop manual.