G320 needing help already
Anybody with any useful suggestions, my newly acquired G wagon had a fault on the front drivers side indicator which turned out to be just a bad connection. Having cured this the vehicle is still showing a fault on the diagnostic panel for the front indicator and has completely disabled the vehicle it says brake distribution inoperative ABS and ESP inoperative and speed Tronic inoperative I cannot get the vehicle out of park so it is now stuck somewhere I don't want it to be stuck I have tried disconnecting the battery suggestions please ....
Have ou tried a call to George in case he can help? It sounds like you need a diagnostic laptop
Hi Bruce
Not sure the 2 are related tbh
Think the ESP / BAS will be a separate fault...to the indicator.
Not quite sure how old the G320CDI is and assuming its a LWB 463.341 chassis?
2 possibilities that spring to mind...
Both evolve around the Brake Lights.... they are not on all the time by any chance?
The later models have a stop / tail bulb all in one (twin filament 12v21/5w) In theory they only go in one way because of off set pins but they are easy to get in the wrong way so that the Brake Light (21w) bit is lit up all the time and the Tail Light (5w) only comes on under braking, the clever electronics think that the Brakes are on because of the wattage reading and can shut down the throttle, cause limp mode and or throw fault lights. Have they been swapped recently?
The more common issue is with the Brake Light Switch which is under the actual pedal, these can get dirt and debris in them and lock in a position, giving a similar issue to above. Sometimes you can carefully clean and lubricate these and they will go again, more often a replacement is needed and they are on about 6th generation i think.
Because of the nature of the (properly used) G Wagen and the Vans this was a common issue with mud, water and debris in the cabin
A "Freeman" G will have been cared for, but it will also have been used as intented and no "Chelsea Tractor!"
Failing that the BAS Switch and Control Unit are unfortunately both common and not too cheap MB issues of the age...
Good luck
Gav
Just had this in from a friend....
"Saw this guy's problem...had the same thing with a late model G and it was caused by low voltage on the battery triggering faults that don't actually exist..."
Worth checking the Battery Voltage, especially under load?
ABS for sure will not operate with even a small drop in voltage...
If the truck's been stood then a strong possibility, especially if its been masked by a quick charge prior to sale..
It's possible to manually override the park lock. SeE your user manual.
All those faults at the same time may indeed be a voltage issue or. a CAN bus problem
Brake light switch is, as Gav said, a common issue.
The battery seems fine certainly doesn't seem slow to turn over,the initial problem as I said was the indicator with a slightly corroded contact and the fact that the fog light was flashing instead of the indicator which I assume is a backup system, it says back up bulb. My user manual is in German so apart from " Hands up" and "jagermeister" my knowledge is crap. Hopefully got MB assistance out today.
Hi Bruce,
Hope you sort this out - although no help for this matter, I have the same car and have bought an original MB user manual in English for it from MB.
Come back to me when you're sorted if you want any help sourcing.
Pre 1999, the wiring and connectors were all heavy-duty, with most connectors large and with silver-plated contacts. The wiring was also point-to-point, such that the indicator stalk was actually wired to the indicators. Today, the wiring is based on a fly-by-wire approach, operating on 2-wire, CANbus, linking distributed SAM modules that do the actual switching of current to devices. The wiring and connectors are super-flimsy, resembling what you might find in a cheap PC and the modules are located in damp places, like inside the doors. This eventually leads to problems and lots of error-codes. The system is supposed to reduce the amount of wires and copper and permits 'tricks' like flashing the fog-light when it thinks the actual indicator bulb may be burned-out
The engine, transmission and brakes, similarly operate on their own powertrain CANbus, and although its wiring and connectors are not really any better, it is a separate bus and should not be affected by any indicator faults...., unless perhaps it's related to the gateway module, which links all the busses together?
I have one G of each flavour and the one with all the electronics is definitely more trouble.
As for the P-lock, there should be a picture in the manual that shows if you press somewhere near the P marking on the shifter gate, using a pointed object like a pen, the lock can be released to move the lever.
Hope you get it sorted today.
Don't ignore the battery issue
Cranking and starting are no guide
A battery holding anywhere close to 12v will spin the engine over with no issues
One with 11.5v will throw random issues and certainly affect the ABS which will throw a fault light on initial self test on fire up
Hope the MB tech gets it sorted, however they will probably only want to tow it to dealers i don't think they are really MB diagnostic techs anymore? I think its still outsourced by MB and they are only trained in basic road side assistance
PS What part of beautiful Cumbria are you at?
Can't think of anywhere up there that you would not want to leave a nice truck up attended!!]
Gav
Gav is right about not ignoring the potential for the faults to be caused by low battery voltage.
The Range Rover L322 operates a similar CanBus system to your G and I had many and varied electrical issues until I replaced the failing battery with a new one.
I was told that the problems were most likely due to a battery issue but I initially discounted this because the battery appeared to be fine when starting the car. 
It would be worth putting a voltmeter on the battery to see what voltage it is producing and give it an overnight charge, it doesn't need much of a drop to affect the CanBus systems. In your case it appears to be across a range of systems which again points at a voltage problem.
Suspicions were correct, No MB tech just lift and shift to the local main dealer. I did test the battery before he arrive and it holds a good 12.5 volts and even load testing seemed OK. I will have to wait until the local dealership get the diagnostics on it tomorrow . I am over in the Duddon Valley so I have South Lakes Mercedes at Ulverston quite close. I will post an update when I know. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Can anybody provide details for a source of UK owners handbook for the G320. I guess main dealer prices will be astronomic if they can even supply.
there's this one, which may be similar enough (2007):
http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalAssets/pdfmb/ownersmanual/2007_gclass.pdf
or download one here for 2011 (and other years, too):
https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/service_and_parts/owners_manuals#!year=2011&class=G-Class
I think theres one in the Members Area under G Owners handbooks.
Thank you for the handbook details, very useful. Local dealers have been worse than useless, didn't check battery at all just called me and announce it needs a new EPS module, £2000 plus fitting. No attempt to contact me and talk about the problems and other fault codes just,the fault code says EPS so that must be the problem . To cap it all they can't even be bothered to call back as promised after I asked them to do a battery drop test and let me know the result. In case anyone wants to avoid them Marshal Group trading as South Lakeland Mercedes.
Par for the course I'm afriad...
Unfortunate about the dealer and bad-luck having something so costly go wrong just after buying the car. Do you have any warranty on it?
I think there are very few skilled technicians these days who can do proper diagnostics to see whether the fault is really as indicated or whether it may be a wiring problem or something else. So, it will be a case of replace this, replace that, and see if the fault goes away. The fault may indeed go away through fiddling with things, but the process may not get to the route cause.
I think you mean 'ESP', which is the electronic stability control (or moose-avoidance device).
I wasn't aware that the ESP module is a separate module. All these functions, like BAS, are normally integrated into the ABS control unit, the only extras required for the ESP function are the Yaw sensor/ accelerometer and the steering-angle sensor. These sensors do not cost £2000.
Maybe Gavin, here can tell you the cost of the various modules?
Usually the ABS/ESP main modules are about £700, including the pump/valve-block ?
http://www.micro-tronik.com/Support/Info/Benz-ESP-211.htm
Incidentally, both speedtronic and the ESP rely on working wheel-speed sensors. maybe you just have a faulty wheel sensor (about £120)?
have you jet-washed your wheels recently?
Also if you have ever disconnected the battery, you must turn the steering from lock-to-lock to re-calbrate the steering sensor, once the battery is reconnected. Else, you will get similar ESP messages.
If I were you, I'd like to see some fault codes and see whet happens if they can be cleared, and what errors come back.
Can help with anything, just drop me a PM with the chassis number
Andrew Freeman the previous owner is arranging to get the car moved to Mercedes Boston, they seem to be more switched on and more capable with G class.the trouble is that the people paid to work on the car do not have even a fraction of this combined knowledge.
Hello Gav
i am away at the moment but I can email you the latest service schedule with all details.vin is WDB4633411x171982 much appreciated.
Arnie, why would a defective bulb or poor connection on an indicator bulb trigger the problems unless it is a dodgy battery with a less than healthy output?
Yes, it's possible it's a faulty battery and the battery should be checked.. I was questioning the amount quoted of £2000 for replacing essentially the ABS unit and wondering what tests they made to exclude other possible triggers of the fault. However, II have never found the battery voltage to be a cause of such problems , unless the battery is really on its way out. Most automotive systems have a low threshold voltage of at least 9 volts and during engine cranking, the voltage on a good battery should not drop lower than that. Sometimes coincidences are just that. The bulb issue, I'd truly a bad contact, may not be at all related.
Additionally, nearly all electrical modules will register a low voltage and record an error code for that, so it should be easy enough to tell.
A FUSE!!!!! That is what caused all the problems. South Lakeland Mercedes were ready to charge £2000 for a new ESP module and lots of diagnostic work. Mercedes Boston had the car an hour before it was fixed. The previous owners Andrew and George Freeman who are true G enthusiasts have been incredible. If ever you are in a position to buy a used G from them I can assure you it will be as described and truly cherished.
Well that is surprising that a fuse could disable the vehicle, but good news tat you have it sorted..
Really frustrating to even read this article with regard to the uselessness of the main dealer who quoted ridiculous money to fix a problem that never was. Would really have to stress that, as you found out, it is necessary to go to people who have a degree of competency around the G. Anyway, eventually, glad you got it sorted and that you can now enjoy your machine. Just out of interest, which fuse was it?
Ph
Probably one of the ABS/ESP fuses (40, 59, B, D)
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No I am hoping that Mercedes assistance can help tomorrow but if not, where is George? So bloody frustrating that a bloody indicator bulb issue can disable a car.