Cross threaded wheel bolts rear wheel
While trying my new (to me) Atik alloys to see what they look like I discovered that 3 out of the 5 wheels bolts are crossed threaded on the rear of my G300. Has the drum brakes
Luckily managed to get them back on and tight, but not happy about them.
I've already bought some new correct wheel bolts and if I try to thread them in they go so far and stop.
So the options as I see it are
1. Get a M14 1.5 tap and hope that there is enough metal in the hub part to repair the threads
2. Get someone to install helli coils on the damaged threads
3. Replace the Axle shaft
Which I believe is this part no 140 A4633500510
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Mercedes-Benz&ssd=%24Hiwd...
Looking at this guide it seems to be the part and not that hard - but I guess it will be the most expensive option.
http://www.armchairlaners.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2014.0
What does everyone suggest - or any other ideas - especially where to buy the axle shaft from other than Merc
I like the Atiks - one of my favourite wheels for the G. Huge choice of tyres available in 16" and the higher profile gives a nice ride.
I can't imagine how someone would have cross-threaded the wheel bolts, unless they were rusty and an air-gun was used?
Helicoils can be stronger than the original thread, and i would try these first. However, it would be best to remove the shaft and take it to a machine shop for drilling, tapping and fitting the helicoils.
Removal is quite easy compared to the front axle. You may need to replace the seals though.
(As you probably know the wheel bolts should have radius, round seats, not conical or tapered)
If you've had bolts for steel wheels in alloy wheels, they are too short. This results in the the threads at the bottom of the hole getting rusty. You then use bolts the correct length the drive straight into the rusty threads. If you run a tap down the hole it will cure it.
If you don't live too far from Blackpool we can help if your stuck.
Gordon
a 463 with steel wheels ?
still, it's possible Gordon is correct. No harm in trying a tap first to clean the threads
The bolts for alloys should have a 45mm shank.
Probably best to re-tap the threads with the wheel taken off and the brake-drum removed, so that you have good access to the drive flange and can see what's going on. Also, it means that you can clean-off any rust or swarf after the job. (Make sure you have a good jack/axle-stand.)
lubricate the tap with some cutting lubricant or a drop of oil.
Will try a tap on the damaged threads, - just need to get an extension for the tap as my normal wrench hits the tyre when it turns.
Hopefully wont need a new stub axle got a price from MB today £840 + vat - ouch