Body Lift

Body lifts in any G-Wagen are extremely dangerous, unless professionally designed and executed. The angles of the steering linkages and universal joints of the propshafts are critical, which makes this task even more difficult if tour car is SWB.

I can recommend ORC in Germany, GCenter in Holland and CSA in Spain. In the UK, G-Wagen.co.uk (Caversham Garage) would be the best bet, but I am unsure whether they have any experience in this matter.

Cheers

Sorry J. I have to contradict you. a body lift does not alter the angles in the prop shafts or steering geometry. think about it. all the components attached to the chassis /axles stay where they are.
Only components between the body and chassis need be altered, ie sterring column ( self adjusting) its in a slide, accelerator linkage adjustable, cables, pipes and wiring. the distance they need to flex is already there.
If you raise the body,then you should widen the axles by spacers, this puts the c of g and geometry of the axle down force and steering symetry back in place. The main purpose of body lift is to facilitate extra deflection of wheels / tyres when spring size is increased(this affects prop shaft angles) and tyre size too.You will however need to increase the length of the gear lever the transfer box seletor and the diff lock plungers, attention must also be paid to the brake and clutch hydraulic pipes and compomnent breathers oil cooler pipes and water hoses lift the radiator cassette etc etc, and don't forget the fuel tank filler and hoses rear light wiring fuel pipes to the engine, returns if its a diesel.
in ORCs kit are all the bits you need
I think tho that its a don't do this at home job.

Bill Moss

I can not understand how propulsion shafts would foul the chassis in a body lift ie moving the body away from the chassis, they are free to move in axle articulation with out fouling any thing, fitting longer springs lifts the chassis away from the body leaving more room to fit larger tyres, increasing ground clearance, I still can't see where that would cause a propulsion shaft to foul the chassis or any other chassis/body mounted component.
I can see where the drive angle of the Ujs would be unhealthy if springs were just too tall. but no other problems.
I think you have to decide. body lift bigger wheels/tyres. or taller springs bigger wheels/tyres or a bit of both.
The thing I forgot to mention is when you lift the body or lengthen the springs apart from all the other bits, it's important to lengthen the brake compensator rod by the same amount and reset the compensator. if you don't you'll have some very scary moments
Bill Moss

Mortison,

would you by any chance have a webpage address for CSA in Spain? Saw a green swb Gwith a OM603 in a Spanish magazine they had fixed up pretty nice.
Gracias,
Mike

It was a bright green (kawasaki green) G. I think it was in Formula Todo Terreno.
Thanks for the link and cool pic.
saludos,
Mike

that's the one I saw
gracias

Going backwards to the basic Question : a so called body lift consists of 8 Aluminum pieces with a diameter of 65-70mm and a heigt of 40mm (minimum). The kit will come with screws and Nuts as well. In order to lift the Body from the frame you would loose (unscrew- sorry for my bad english) all 8 screws but revome them only on one side.

Remove the Radiator connections and the switches for the lockers (on a 460/461 only). Disconnect the Tank fill in hose.

Lift the body carefully and check for any wire or cable becomming too short.
Put in the Aluminum pieces, and stick in the longer screws that came with the lift.

Same procedure on all other mountings. Change the side, do it over again. Congratulations. You'd lift the body. Now you have to enlarge the locker switch handles, and reinstall the Radiator connections to the body with a new holder. Install the Tank hose.
Done with the Bodylift...Now you have to adjsut the bumpers in height. You'll need to do some adaprters otherwise it will look stupid. These adapters are described in ORC as set two.

Any more questions ??