463 300GD 1993 - Diff lock switches
Hi,
I am a new owner of a 1993 300GD 463 with automatic transmission.
I love the car, but my 3 switches for diff locks are dead. No light and nothing happens when I push them.
I have checked the following things:
- Fuses. Everything ok.
- Electrical connector on the side of the transferebox. Cleaned and oiled
- Electrical connectors on solenoids. Cleaned and oiled.
- Electrical connectors on the back of the switch panel. Cleaned and oiled.
My guess is that this is something electrical, since there is no light in the switch panel. Anyone has any advice on what to check next?
I found one loose vacuum hose in the engine room. There are two hoses going in towards the diesel pump, between the engine block and the air filter box. I can not figure out where is is supposed to be connected. The end of the hose is located right underneeth the engine for the window wiper.
The diff lock problem certain appears to be electric. They yellow light should illuminate when you press the switch and red when the lock engages.
The power for the diff locks is supplied via one relay no 10 on the attached diagrammme.It has a timer connected to it so when you switch off the ignition the diff locks remain live for a further 30 s. Check the operation of the relay, it should liven each time the ign is switched on. There are other relays which operate when you press the button, but they will not be causing the entire system to shut down. There is always the possibility that someone has been in the area behind the upper centre panel and messed up the cables.
The two brown pipes going to the fuel pump eventually end up at the ignition switch, they shut the fuel down. They must connect into the vacuum system at some point.
Great G is used to own a 92 like yours.
Drop the panel in the lower-part of the passenger footwell area. there are two twist-locks in the carpet covering.
Hi Arnstein77
>>>>And what book is that page from. Looks like a very good book >>>>>
The complete Diff lock info is available to GWOA Members in the Members area of the Website.
regards GWOA Admin
I struggle to find stuff, where is the diff lock part in the Members Area ?
Thanks
Dave
Hi
there's a link to a 463 maintenance manual under the g resouces -g links put on by Lego
if you want just diff lock system and drawings I can send you a file via email - the file is too big to upload onto this section.
if you want to send me your emaul adress I'll send the file.
tim
OK then, can you point me to the manual that has that please ?
All I can find is a manual folder with 342 completely separate pages ??
Dave
Well the first step has worked. You've found the relay fault.
MB might be the easiest way to get a replacement.
ABS light coming on is normal as the diff locks automatically disables the abs.
When you activate the F & R locks does the yellow light come on?
If I'm not mistaken, if you're a paid up member, the member area info is at your disposal to use and do with as you please.
...
I have some rusty hard piping under the car. Guess some of them are vacuum? I know my fuel pipes are rusty and also some other pipes. The same size, thicker than the brake piping.
I have made new brake pipes, but not the bigger size pipes like fuel and vacuum pipes. Is it the same method? I guess i need a different tool? Anyone know the thickness/dimension of fuel and vacuum pipes?
.
All vacuum lines are nylon plastic. The metal pipes are for the brakes and for fuel.
You can buy the ready-made brake pipes for very little from MB, but they will be coated, steel pipes. Or you can make your own from copper-nickel brake pipe (do not use the plain copper variety, as it will fatigue and fail).
Same for the fuel lines: MB will supply ready made replacements or you could use copper or stainless-steel.
The auto gearbox (and engine-shut-off... and brakes) relies on the correct functioning of the vacuum lines, so make sure they are all attached, with no leaks, particularly at the rubber unions.
I would test the relay out of the vehicle first, and maybe clean it ? There isn't much to a relay ?
Dave
Got the new relay to day!! My diff lock works. Tested and center and front engage and the light turns red. The rear stays orange. I can tell front is actually engaged because it gets hard to turn.
Any tips for the rear lock? I dont think it has been used for years, so the actuator might be frozen?
some strange noises from the front axle when lock is engaged. Knocking sound. Guess the front axle need some overhauling?
Sounds like the cv's maybe failing.
I'd start with the rear actuator, seems like the most likely culprit for non engagement.
I hope that you are checking the locks on a unpaved surface. The rear one may not have engaged because you need to create a speed difference between the axles. don't engage the front, just rear and drive in a circle.
If the front is engaging it means that the vacuum system is in good nick. Normally they are the difficult one.
thanks a lot!!
But where are these relays located?
And what book is that page from. Looks like a very good book ;-)