Spring Removal - Help Please
Hello,
I need some advice on how to remove the rear springs on a 463.
I have dropped the axle as far as it will go (with shocks and brake regulator rod disconnected), but I still needed to use a spring compressor and a lot of persuasion to get just one spring out. I read that there was a way of removing the spings without resorting to a compressor?
I've loosened the radius arms from the chassis, but not removed them.
Also, what is involved in removing the radius arms to replace the bushes? If I pull out the retaining bolts, how easy will it be to refit them??
Finally, if I change the springs, what are the chances that MB will be able to supply a set of correctly marked replacements (two yellow marks)?
Thanks.
Get your new springs from the people in G Wizz. MB's price will make you want to sit down.
:D Arnie
I replaced the springs on my 460 last Saterday so I guess on the 463 it will be simler .
I didnt use a spring compresser I used small ratchet straps worked a treat .
the way I did it was have a jack supporting the chassis , remove bolt on rear of radius arm ,ratchet strap the spring to comprese under the weight of the G, remove wheel and let the axle drop , use a hi-lift jack to lift the body then a small bottle jack between the chassis and radius arm to push the axle to drop a bit , the spring then drops out almost .
comprese the new spring and reverse the job .
I know there are loads of ways to do these things but it worked for me .
Twodogs
Arnie ,
Email Bill Moss
Twodogs
Thank you everyone for your input.
I decided to go with original MB springs in the end as on previous occasions, with "OEM" springs the ride height had changed with a rearward tilt and I did not want to risk on this one. Also, got a reasonable discount, so not too bad!
However, just to let you know that at least for my 463, ony Yellow and Green springs come up as options on the EPC for replacement. My original springs had two yellow markings and the replacments have three, so I was thinking that they would be longer, but no they are exactly the same and have the same 460-324-02-04 numbers stamped on each spring as the originals. Seems like they have rationalised a bit on parts. The shock absorber mounts were qquite rusty from all the salt on UK roads, but I think I got to them just in time. It's taken two days of removing rust and dismantling, so far, just for one side, so a bit more work will be needed until it's all back together again, with all the brakes and suspension renewed.
Just had the joy yesterday of changing the rear springs and shocks (those springs from Bill Moss now have a new home - thanks!).
Took a while longer than expected due to not having the right tools, but fortunately help came in the form of an experienced friend from uni.
The hardest bit was undoing the bottom mounts of the shocks, they were on so tight, and quite dirty from road grime and outside corrosion, that they took some serious soaking with plusgas and extreme leverage (the passenger-side needed a crowbar levered between a spanner on the nut and an expanding ratchet spanner on the bolt head) to undo it.
The springs on one side also did not want to budge from the bottom, the rubber hose was on so tight, but after some soaking and coaxing with the crow bar, it did move. I had some spring clamps, but strangely enough, once you undo the shock to get full suspension travel, and put a jack between the suspension arm and chassis, you don't need them.
Both springs came off with no compression or ratchet straps, and the same with the new ones, they were a bit shorter than the ones that came out (Monroe), but they went in easily by hand, and the car seems to sit level now.
See pics for more info, and tips on what to avoid!
The top nut of the Bilstein shocks must be undone by holding the thread in place with an allen key, but if you put an allen key in there, and tighten the nut, it will push the allen key up against the body and you won't be able to remove it. So you are best using a small allen key bit (6mm) clamped in locking pliers, that you can actually remove from once the nut is tight. The originals have a 9/10mm wrench slot to hold in place rather than a hex.
The OEM Sachs/BOGE are better for having the metal surround around the rod, which is better if you do serious offroading, as opposed to the Bilsteins that have a cheesy plastic surround, but the Bilsteins are silent as opposed to the oil-filled OEM.
Sourcing the bits was pretty annoying, Tanvic (our local SACHS retailer) only managed to find one in the region, and our local motor factor didn't even have an application listed. Eurocarparts.com had the Bilsteins in stock, which is why I went for them (had to do them before next week), but if you do go for the same go for internet ordering as it saves you carriage.
JOIN THE GWOA
This website and forum are provided for the benefit of enthusiasts and owners of all Mercedes Benz off road vehicles, in particular the G Wagen. The costs of development, upkeep and provision of the site are met entirely by the annual subscriptions of club members. If you are using the site and are not a member of the G Wagen Owners Association please consider joining. You will have access to areas on the site that are not open to non members, to club trips and meetings and to technical assistance. In addition your contribution (only £25 annually) will help us maintain and develop our website for future users.
Who's new
- Awon
- f.ecoheat
- ImportBry
- doctorchehab
- Victoria Bond
Thank you all for the replies. MB's prices are £356 for a pair of rear springs. Do you know roughly what GWizz would charge?
I've removed the transverse arms to clean and paint them (one at a time). I may also fit new bushes to them while at it, but it makes refitting the springs easier.